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	<title>Food Stories</title>
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	<link>http://helengraves.co.uk</link>
	<description></description>
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		<title>British Food: What the Devil is It?</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/03/british-food-what-the-devil-is-it/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/03/british-food-what-the-devil-is-it/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:18:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Video]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[british food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food bloggers jay rayner]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[is there such a thing as british food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jay rayner]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[the guardian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[the observer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[the observer food monthly]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[word of mouth]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2937</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Observer Food Monthly re-launches this weekend and promises to be even better and stronger than it was before. As part of the fun, The Observer invited me, Chris and Euwen along for a natter with Jay Rayner on the topic of British Food. Watching yourself on video is no easy task I can tell [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Observer Food Monthly re-launches this weekend and promises to be even better and stronger than it was before. As part of the fun, The Observer invited me, <a href="http://cheesenbiscuits.blogspot.com/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/cheesenbiscuits.blogspot.com/?referer=');">Chris </a>and <a href="http://www.tehbus.com/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.tehbus.com/?referer=');">Euwen</a> along for a natter with Jay Rayner on the topic of British Food. Watching yourself on video is no easy task I can tell you that for nothing. Two bits of advice if you ever have to do it: 1 &#8211; make sure you spend more than five minutes styling your hair and 2 &#8211; be prepared to forget every opinion you ever had, along with the majority of words that were in your vocabulary.</p>
<p>Anyway, here it is. The idea of the vid is to stimulate a bit of discussion about British Food, of course, so do please share your thoughts below. I&#8217;d love to know what your favourite dishes are and your opinions on whether or not we even have a national cuisine.</p>
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		<title>Star Anise Ice Cream</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/03/star-anise-ice-cream/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/03/star-anise-ice-cream/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Mar 2010 20:43:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Desserts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ice Cream]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[spiced ice cream]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[star anise]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[star anise ice cream recipe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2919</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Shoot me a jibe about my childlike obsession with ice cream and I&#8217;ll knock it back from fifty paces. It&#8217;s not dull, it&#8217;s not just for kids and I don&#8217;t need to order the gold-leaf-plated mille fuille of  fruits of Eden with a Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque sabayon; I  just want a bowl of ice [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4413857535_c9a58d929e.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4413857535_c9a58d929e.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="star anise ice cream with poached pears" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4413857535_c9a58d929e.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>Shoot me a jibe about my childlike obsession with ice cream and I&#8217;ll knock it back from fifty paces. It&#8217;s not dull, it&#8217;s not just for kids and I don&#8217;t need to order the gold-leaf-plated mille fuille of  fruits of Eden with a Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque sabayon; I  just want a bowl of ice cream. Its combination of baby food smoothness and melting sugared cream may be part of the appeal, yes (and classics such as raspberry ripple get me every time) but often it&#8217;s the way it so gracefully carries those <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/09/guilty-pleasures-dinner-party-2pork-party/" target="_blank">grown-up</a> <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/11/earl-grey-and-lemon-verbena-ice-cream/" target="_blank">flavours</a> which has me reaching for the sundae spoon. I do love a bit of spice in my sweet stuff.</p>
<p>I originally envisaged this ice cream oozing all over a rhubarb galette but the recipe I used was not at all to my taste. To be fair alarm bells did ring as I was making it &#8211; <em>1 whole teaspoon</em> of vanilla extract + 170g sugar must surely = sickly perfume?</p>
<p>The answer is yes, yes it does. The pastry was nice; I picked it off and used it as a scooper for the ice cream.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2745/4413876411_7779616f56.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2745/4413876411_7779616f56.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Rhubarb Galette" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2745/4413876411_7779616f56.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="396" /></a></p>
<p>Back at my drawing board, I got a bee in the bonnet for poached pears. Simmered with a syrup laced with cloves, vanilla (half a pod) and  cinnamon stick, they were delicate, elegant and actually rather perfect. One thing missing though: pastry. Makes you wonder why I didn&#8217;t just make the pear tatins as suggested in <a href="http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/recipes/article2677166.ece" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/recipes/article2677166.ece?referer=');">the ice cream recipe</a>, doesn&#8217;t it? Hmm.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4359722551_efae2c86f4.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4359722551_efae2c86f4.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Anise Infusion" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4359722551_efae2c86f4.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="405" /></a></p>
<p>Anyway, the bottom line is that the ice cream is awesome. The scary amount of star anise actually infuse just the right amount of flavour* and the base seemed particularly creamy. Now I&#8217;ve got the bug for spice I&#8217;m set on making a chocolate and cardamom version but there&#8217;s one lesson I&#8217;m taking with me and it&#8217;s this:  sometimes, a girl just needs a simple bowl of ice cream.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/recipes/article2677166.ece" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/recipes/article2677166.ece?referer=');">Star Anise Ice Cream Recipe</a> from The Times</p>
<p>*I was very nervous when I clocked the amount of star anise in the recipe, but realised this is because the milk is infusing for only a short time &#8211; you need to get that flavour in fast. The end result is not overpowering.
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		<title>Sicilian Spaghetti Cake</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/03/sicilian-spaghetti-cake/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/03/sicilian-spaghetti-cake/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Mar 2010 11:09:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cakes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Main Dishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[artichoke spaghetti]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bacon pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[baked pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[baked spaghetti]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sicilian spagetti cake]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Siclian recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[spaghetti cake]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2909</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Here&#8217;s a way to sneak up on your next pasta binge from a different angle. Cooking the pasta for a second time in the oven gives you a bit of textural contrast from the lovely crisp edge bits, the soft inside stuffed with your weapons of choice. I&#8217;ve heard this recipe touted as a &#8216;good [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4410937998_0ea2830c94.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4410937998_0ea2830c94.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Sicilian Spaghetti Cake" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4410937998_0ea2830c94.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="487" /></a></p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a way to sneak up on your next pasta binge from a different angle. Cooking the pasta for a second time in the oven gives you a bit of textural contrast from the lovely crisp edge bits, the soft inside stuffed with your weapons of choice. I&#8217;ve heard this recipe touted as a &#8216;good use for leftover pasta&#8217; but really, who ever has 500g of leftover pasta? Perhaps an army chef.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4410950976_a0d6f7dba8.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4410950976_a0d6f7dba8.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Slice of cake?" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4410950976_a0d6f7dba8.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="405" /></a></p>
<p>What it is good for though, is using up the odds and sods in the fridge. I slung in some softened onions and garlic, black olives, jarred artichoke hearts, grilled bacon, most of a tub of ricotta and the juice and zest of two lemons. A waif end of cheese and stray stalk of parsley went on top. The secret to a good spaghetti cake is to keep it well oiled; they have a tendency to come out dry otherwise. As an alternative, try using a double cream and egg yolk mix stirred through the pasta  &#8211; the end result will be denser and richer.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4410177349_324c3f9730.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4410177349_324c3f9730.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Sicilian Spaghetti Cake " src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4410177349_324c3f9730.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="470" /></a></p>
<p>So there we have it, a way to make pasta even more unhealthy than it was before; where there&#8217;s a will there&#8217;s a way.<br />
<strong><br />
Sicilian Spaghetti Cake</strong></p>
<p>500g spaghetti<br />
1 large onion, finely chopped<br />
5 cloves of garlic, finely chopped<br />
150g jarred artichoke hearts in oil (reserve the oil), chopped roughly<br />
150g black olives, pitted and chopped roughly<br />
250g ricotta cheese<br />
A generous handful of parsley<br />
The juice and zest of two lemons<br />
6 rashers of bacon<br />
Olive oil and plenty of it<br />
A splash of white wine if you have it</p>
<p>Preheat your oven to 180C</p>
<p>Begin by cooking your spaghetti until almost al dente. While this is happening, grill the bacon until crisp then chop roughly and set aside.</p>
<p>Soften the onion and garlic gently in a little olive oil (then add the splash of wine if you have it allowing a minute or two to cook out), then add the artichoke hearts, olives and bacon to warm everything through. When your pasta is ready, stir through the oil from the jar of artichokes plus your artichoke mixture, the lemon juice and zest and a really generous seasoning of salt and pepper. Stir through the ricotta and most of the parsley. The mix will probably need another generous slug of oil at this point. Don&#8217;t be shy &#8211; that&#8217;s a lot of spaghetti.</p>
<p>Brush an oven proof skillet or similarly shaped pan with a little more oil or butter and pour in your spaghetti, flattening it down to a cake shape. Bake for about 30 minutes, until golden and crispy at the edges. Garnish with more parsley. Slice and serve warm, with salad for a bit of psychological self trickery.
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		<title>Steak with Chimichurri</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/03/steak-with-chimichurri/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/03/steak-with-chimichurri/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Mar 2010 22:10:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sauces]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sauces, Condiments and Spreads]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Argentine sauce for steak]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Argentinian food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Argentinian sauce for steak]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chimichurri with steak]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cimichurri]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sirloin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[steak]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2896</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
When a girl gets gifted with a hefty hunk o&#8217; prime cattle, her thoughts immediately turn to entertaining; a lengthy weekend lunch with mates was on the cards. Picture this: nearest and dearest gathered on sofas with a glass and a smile; the soothing rhythm of contented chatter drifting through the kitchen; me pondering whether [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4402139688_86761f7bf6.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4402139688_86761f7bf6.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Steaky steak steak steak" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4402139688_86761f7bf6.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="445" /></a></p>
<p>When a girl gets gifted with a <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/butchery-class-at-allens-of-mayfair/" target="_blank">hefty hunk o&#8217; prime cattle</a>, her thoughts immediately turn to entertaining; a lengthy weekend lunch with mates was on the cards. Picture this: nearest and dearest gathered on sofas with a glass and a smile; the soothing rhythm of contented chatter drifting through the kitchen; me pondering whether or not to give the beef another 10 minutes resting. I imagine myself emerging from the kitchen carrying the magnificent centrepiece to a chorus of &#8216;oohs&#8217; and &#8216;aahs&#8217; and pairs of eyes gleaming with excitement. I&#8217;ll be as proud as punch as I set her down on the table and&#8230;</p>
<p>&#8230;pooff! That was the sound of my dream going up in smoke. We <em>still</em> don&#8217;t have a proper dining table and it&#8217;s breaking my heart. Our only stand-in is a dainty set of patio furniture which only sits two and well, it&#8217;s <em>garden furniture</em>. That only really feels right if you are either a student or it&#8217;s Christmas and you need to squeeze in a couple more relatives. So anyway that&#8217;s my excuse for two of us eating a piece of meat that could probably serve ten. I&#8217;m sticking to it.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2633/4401370137_db83088de7.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2633/4401370137_db83088de7.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Chimichurri Sauce " src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2633/4401370137_db83088de7.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>I began by cutting off two fat sirloins for Sunday lunch. A ballsy chimichurri filled the craving for something with the invigorating prickle of salsa verde without actually being just that; I seriously need to overcome my addiction to the green mistress. Parsley is still a main contender here, whizzed with a lorra lorra garlic and spiky chilli flakes. A fine way to commence a week of bovine feasting. It&#8217;s a tough job, eating all that lovely meat, but someone&#8217;s got to do it.</p>
<p><strong>Chimichurri</strong></p>
<p>30g parsley leaves (a large handful)<br />
2tsp hot chilli flakes or to taste<br />
2 tbsp red wine vinegar<br />
1 tbsp lime juice<br />
1 shallot<br />
Olive oil, to loosen<br />
4 cloves garlic<br />
Salt<br />
A sprig of fresh oregano, leaves removed (optional)</p>
<p>Either chop the garlic, parsley, oregano and shallot very fine or whizz in a food processor. Mix in the chilli flakes, vinegar, lime juice and loosen with olive oil to reach your desired consistency. Season with salt. Great with grilled meats and fish.
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		<title>Butchery Class at Allens of Mayfair</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/butchery-class-at-allens-of-mayfair/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/butchery-class-at-allens-of-mayfair/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 28 Feb 2010 19:52:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Classes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Classes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Allens butcher]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Allens of Mayfair]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[butchery class]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[butchery class London]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2871</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Food classes are all the rage; I&#8217;ve been a dedicated student of  ham school, pig school, steak school and currently,  wine school. I never miss a chance to learn a skill from an expert and I was nothing short of ecstatic to be invited to a butchery class at one of London&#8217;s most renowned: Allens [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2723/4394466129_ba6b4dfe69.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2723/4394466129_ba6b4dfe69.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Schoolin'" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2723/4394466129_ba6b4dfe69.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>Food classes are all the rage; I&#8217;ve been a dedicated student of  <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/10/ham-school-at-brindisa/" target="_blank">ham school</a>, <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/01/a-pig-masterclass-at-trinity/" target="_blank">pig school</a>, <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/04/steak-tasting-at-hawksmoor/" target="_blank">steak school</a> and currently,  <a href="http://www.greenandbluewines.com/index.php/School-of-Wine/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.greenandbluewines.com/index.php/School-of-Wine/?referer=');">wine school</a>. I never miss a chance to learn a skill from an expert and I was nothing short of ecstatic to be invited to a butchery class at one of London&#8217;s most renowned: Allens of Mayfair.</p>
<p>As our cosy group of six gathered around the famous octagonal butcher&#8217;s block to absorb information about safety and don some rather fetching protective gloves (secured around my dainty laydee hand with a couple of laccy bands), I found I became strangely nervous. The kind of nerves you get when you really want to make someone proud; it seemed that David (one of two owners) had already become like a favourite teacher &#8211; I didn&#8217;t want to let him down.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2736/4395239832_c33f4f79e4.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2736/4395239832_c33f4f79e4.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Chook and Glove - together at last " src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2736/4395239832_c33f4f79e4.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="414" /></a></p>
<p>I needn&#8217;t have worried &#8211; this is about as friendly as it gets and yet utterly professional. We stood, mouths hanging agape watching David butcher a whole lamb, instructing us to &#8216;&#8221;let the knife do the work&#8221; and to &#8220;move the meat around &#8211; it&#8217;s already dead.&#8221; He shimmied it back and forth across the block with the ease of an entirely automatic action; the knife like a natural extension of his arm. To watch the pros at work is really something; I can see why many top London restaurants choose Allens, London&#8217;s oldest butcher&#8217;s shop, as a supplier.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2803/4395223590_938c31d031.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2803/4395223590_938c31d031.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Butcherin' pro style" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2803/4395223590_938c31d031.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>We giggled as David mused on the difference between the male and female approach to the classes. Apparently men tend to barge in with testosterone fuelled caveman hackery while women, in general, adopt a more careful, considered style. A stereotype of course but also a valuable message: butchery is an art, a skill &#8211; not a lesson in who can make one lump of meat into many in the shortest time possible.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4395199944_031547e373.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4395199944_031547e373.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Chicken Legs " src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4395199944_031547e373.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="324" /></a></p>
<p>We began the class with the humble chook. Now I&#8217;ve hacked away at many a bird in my time and despite owning a copy of &#8216;Knife Skills Illustrated&#8217; and having free and easy access to Google, I&#8217;m ashamed to say I&#8217;ve never looked up the proper method for jointing. That leg joint has flummoxed me on too many occasions; on Saturday I learned that all one needs to do to release that joint is put a hand underneath and push upwards.</p>
<p>The extra trick with the legs is also to preserve the &#8216;oyster&#8217; &#8211; regarded by some (including, famously, Marco Pierre White) as the most delicious morsel of meat on the entire bird. I failed miserably on my first attempt but nailed it on the second (above, the one on the left has the oyster, at the top).</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4394491121_819aedf637.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4394491121_819aedf637.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Oxtail Chunks" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4394491121_819aedf637.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>Next was oxtail; the trick here to locate each joint and then slice just next to it &#8211; your knife should glide through easily. If it doesn&#8217;t you know you&#8217;re off track. Most of us needed help &#8211; some joints are more elusive than others. Everyone took pride in lining up their pieces in size order as suggested.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4395271064_83ea0eb828.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4395271064_83ea0eb828.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Me with saw" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4395271064_83ea0eb828.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="453" /></a></p>
<p>After the simplicity of the oxtail it was on to a French-trimmed rack of lamb. This was daunting due to the need for sawing of bones but careful supervision left us all with a  rack to be proud of. No sniggering at the back please&#8230;</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2773/4395301818_560766bdae.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2773/4395301818_560766bdae.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="BEEF" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2773/4395301818_560766bdae.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>The grand finale was just that;  jitters set in &#8211; what if we made a wrong cut? A spectacular 3 bone piece of sirloin demanded all our attention and respect. The challenge was to remove the bone, the unwanted fat and gristle and roll, securing the joint with some surprisingly tricksy butcher&#8217;s knots. Our teachers really excelled themselves in terms of patience and attentiveness; we were all terrified of making a wrong slice on a clearly expensive piece of meat.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2801/4394549199_a1284a9520.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2801/4394549199_a1284a9520.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Cleaver" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2801/4394549199_a1284a9520.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>At the end of approximately 1 1/2 hours, a quick squiz around the room revealed a bunch of people with silly, cheesy grins. The team at Allens are charming, patient, funny and extremely good at what they do. That&#8217;s not a gushing, biased blurb but a heartfelt recommendation that you try this class for yourself. It costs £100 and you will take home valuable experience, knowledge and a shed load of high quality meat that you have butchered with your very own hands. It is extremely good value. Schoolin&#8217; just doesn&#8217;t get better than this.</p>
<p>See Allens <a href="http://www.allensofmayfair.co.uk/classes" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.allensofmayfair.co.uk/classes?referer=');">website</a> for details. Type of meat and cuts change according to availability and season.</p>
<p><em><strong>Allens of Mayfair<br />
117 Mount Street,<br />
London W1K 3LA<br />
Tel: 020 7499 5831</strong></em></p>
<p>Full Flickr set <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodstories/sets/72157623525937246/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.flickr.com/photos/foodstories/sets/72157623525937246/?referer=');">here </a><em><strong><br />
</strong></em>
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		<title>Recreating The Bobcat Burger (Hamburger America!)</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/recreating-the-bobcat-burger-hamburger-america/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/recreating-the-bobcat-burger-hamburger-america/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 21 Feb 2010 20:59:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Barbecue]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bread]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Burgers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Main Dishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sandwiches]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Street Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[American burger recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bobcat bite]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bobcat burger]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bobcat burger recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bobcat slaw recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[George Motz]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hamburger America]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[John and Bonnie Eckre]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[new mexico burger]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2840</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
It used to be the case that I was in the minority; my obsession with burgers and their buns has been a long time raging. Now every London blogger, their partner, pet and best mate seems to be fixated on them. My main issue was always the bun, which was what led me to arrange [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4376608546_5f34473ba5.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4376608546_5f34473ba5.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Bobcat Burger" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4376608546_5f34473ba5.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="356" /></a></p>
<p>It used to be the case that I was in the minority; my obsession with burgers and their buns has been a long time raging. Now every London blogger, their partner, pet and best mate seems to be fixated on them. My main issue was always the bun, which was what led me to arrange <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/08/in-search-of-perfect-buns-at-byron/" target="_blank">The Great Bun Tasting</a> and to make several batches of <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/08/brioche-burger-buns/" target="_blank">these</a>.  They are pretty much the ideal bun &#8211; a slightly sweet brioche with a structure that is light yet robust enough to last without turning to mush.</p>
<p>The problem with burgers in London is that decent ones are so few and far between that when we do actually find one, everyone gets worked up to the extent that the hype exceeds reality. It&#8217;s like playing a favourite song to death; it becomes so familiar that you almost have to try harder to enjoy it. <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/03/hawksmoor-the-burger/" target="_blank">The Hawksmoor burger</a> is a perfect example.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2788/4376586420_04513eeeb4.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2788/4376586420_04513eeeb4.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="BOIGER! " src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2788/4376586420_04513eeeb4.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="388" /></a></p>
<p>In America though, they do things differently; we are teased with stories of delicious burgers on every other block. The interesting thing though is that while they are generally regarded with appropriate respect, most seem completely unpretentious. Fast food; high quality; grabbed and gobbled. American burgers is a subject I spend quite a bit of time reading about but sadly, I&#8217;ve not yet had a chance to visit for real. My excitement at discovering <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/08/bobcat-burger-at-the-meat-wagon/" target="_blank">The Meatwagon</a> then, in an industrial estate on my very own home turf of Peckham, was off the scale and then some. It was there that I tasted my first Bobcat Burger; I&#8217;ve craved another ever since. My love affair with Hamburger America had begun.</p>
<p>Then I got my hands on this book by George Motz and, as if that wasn&#8217;t good enough, it came with a DVD which is, quite simply, brilliant. Motz basically journeyed across America in search of the best burger joints (100 made the final cut) and the result is a charming record of the daily lives of each joint, the history, the customers and of course, the burgers &#8211; some of which are simply outrageous.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4375821651_fc9f2deb43.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4375821651_fc9f2deb43.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Hamburger America" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4375821651_fc9f2deb43.jpg" alt="" width="401" height="500" /></a></p>
<p>The film opens for example with &#8216;Dyer&#8217;s Restaurant&#8217; where, &#8220;it&#8217;s all about the grease&#8221; &#8211; deep fried burgers. Super thin patties are plunged into NINETY ONE YEAR OLD oil until cooked and then lifted out and squeezed, an oleaginous waterfall gushing forth. The grease is apparently &#8217;strained and processed&#8217; every day but seriously, that fat has never been changed. Dyer&#8217;s consider this their selling point though and when they moved premises, the oil moved to the new location accompanied by a police escort and TV crew. Not joking.</p>
<p>Twenty minutes in and I was worried; a steamed burger with steamed cheese came next, followed by the peanut butter burger and then the plain old butter burger, which in case you are wondering is simply piled, <em>piled</em> with what I would estimate to be <em>at least</em> 5 or 6 tablespoons of butter. Amongst the extreme though there are the sublime and by the end of the film I was salivating.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4376776582_f47b11ac12.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4376776582_f47b11ac12.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="John and Bonnie Eckre - Burger Gods" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4376776582_f47b11ac12.jpg" alt="" width="375" height="500" /></a></p>
<p>The <a href="http://www.bobcatbite.com/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.bobcatbite.com/?referer=');">Bobcat Bite</a> (New Mexico) is owned by John and Bonnie Eckre (above), who are very proud of their Green Chilli Cheeseburger. People actually come in coachloads to visit the place and often end up with a lengthy wait due to the limited seating capacity; Bonnie describes how customers have been known to wait for an hour outside without a grumble. The burgers are worth it.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2701/4376573628_d70c705190.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2701/4376573628_d70c705190.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Turkish Chillies - very mild" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2701/4376573628_d70c705190.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="442" /></a></p>
<p>The Bobcat is this: prime beef topped with chillies fried in butter; sinful juices seep through the meat. Cheese is then melted on top of the chillies, sealing the spicy layer. A sprinkle of their &#8216;famous&#8217; tangy slaw provides crunch and contrast. When I found the recipe for Bobcat slaw in Hamburger America there was no stopping me; I made buns, the slaw and some patties from ground beef shoulder. Mild Turkish chillies were fried in butter, piled high and sealed with a cheesy vacuum. That cat was finally mine.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4376603368_027ce8b904.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4376603368_027ce8b904.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Bobcatty Cat Cat Cat " src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4376603368_027ce8b904.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="376" /></a></p>
<p>Some burger recommendations that will come as no surprise: if you live in London and you are not suffering from burger fatigue, I recommend you visit <a href="http://www.themeatwagon.co.uk/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.themeatwagon.co.uk/?referer=');">The Meat Wagon</a>. It goes without saying that Hamburger America should also go on the wish list. While you are waiting for those things to happen, why not try the recipe/s below and inject a little New Mexican love into your boiger? It&#8217;s a taste sensation and no mistakin&#8217;.<br />
<strong><br />
Bobcat Burgers (from Bobcat Bite, New Mexico) </strong></p>
<p>Ground beef shoulder, for making the patties, or ground beef of your choice. You want a good bit of fat in there basically. I wanted to experiment with a mixture of cuts but didn&#8217;t have time<br />
Mild green chillies (or hot, up to you), sliced<br />
Butter and a touch of oil, for frying<br />
Cheese slice of your choice</p>
<p>I use <a href="http://smittenkitchen.com/2009/07/light-brioche-burger-buns/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/smittenkitchen.com/2009/07/light-brioche-burger-buns/?referer=');">this recipe</a> for the buns &#8211; it&#8217;s the best I&#8217;ve come across</p>
<p><strong>Bobcat Bite Slaw (from Hamburger America)</strong><br />
<em>This is a half quantity. Double this apparently keeps the Bobcat Bite going for 1 day. It is best the day after it has been made.</em></p>
<p>1 small head white cabbage, core removed and finely shredded<br />
1/2 large green bell pepper, grated<br />
110g caster sugar (yep, really)<br />
235ml white vinegar (trust me)<br />
60ml flavourless oil, such as groundnut<br />
1/2 teaspoon salt<br />
1/2 teaspoon black pepper<br />
1/2 teaspoon celery seeds<br />
1 tablespoon mustard</p>
<p>Mix it all together. Keep in the fridge and give it a good stir before serving.</p>
<p><strong>Assembly</strong></p>
<p>Toast your buns. Gently fry your chillies in a healthy amount of butter (20g or so) and begin frying your burgers. I use a cast iron pan for this &#8211; if you have a proper hot plate then use that &#8211; I am jealous. When you flip the burger, it&#8217;s time to put those chillies on followed by the cheese. Once the cheese has melted you are good to go. Get that burger in that bun. Top with slaw (and anything else you fancy) and serve.
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		<title>Beef Ragu Papardelle with Gremolata</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/beef-ragu-papardelle-with-gremolata/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/beef-ragu-papardelle-with-gremolata/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Feb 2010 19:34:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Main Dishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sauces, Condiments and Spreads]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beef ragu]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beef shin ragu]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gremolata]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[papardelle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ragu]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2826</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Few things wrap themselves around pasta quite like the ragu. Three and a half hours of gentle simmering and that meat is ready to embrace every fold, nook and cranny of carbohydrate. You wait a long time for it to collapse, reduce and intensify and so a generous portion is essential as a reward. When [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4360490368_2a6158ac07.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4360490368_2a6158ac07.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Beef Ragu Close and Personal" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4360490368_2a6158ac07.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>Few things wrap themselves around pasta quite like the ragu. Three and a half hours of gentle simmering and <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodstories/4360456786/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.flickr.com/photos/foodstories/4360456786/?referer=');">that meat</a> is ready to embrace every fold, nook and cranny of carbohydrate. You wait a long time for it to collapse, reduce and intensify and so a generous portion is essential as a reward. When you&#8217;ve finished devouring, it is perfectly possible that you may need a lie down and then, probably, a nap.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2729/4360476914_b29bb4232d.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2729/4360476914_b29bb4232d.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Stick Your Face in me NOW!!! " src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2729/4360476914_b29bb4232d.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>I managed to stick out three and a half hours cooking this ragu. At one point I thought it might need four, and in my delicate mental state owing purely to the anguish of delayed gratification I almost shed a little tear. I&#8217;m sure none of you lot would be so fragile and unreasonable in the face of a half cooked stew though, so don&#8217;t let that put you off.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4360468776_11d11ef67a.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4360468776_11d11ef67a.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Gremolata " src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4360468776_11d11ef67a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>While the persona of the ragu is like that of a mature and erudite gentleman, the gremolata zips in with the energy of a three year old given free reign with the sherbet dip dabs. The chipper mix of lemon zest, parsley and garlic is, for me, the perfect condiment, skipping around those wintry depths with perky high notes.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4360496954_aa4d7ba885.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4360496954_aa4d7ba885.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Beef Ragu Waiting Patiently to be Eaten" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4360496954_aa4d7ba885.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>This is solid Sunday food. It&#8217;s indulgent, comforting and takes a long time to cook. It also gives you time to get into character with it; I pretended I was Keith Floyd in his heyday as I poured an entire bottle of gutsy red over some large pieces of meat and then settled down with a glass of my own.</p>
<p><strong>Beef Ragu Papardelle with Gremolata</strong></p>
<p>800g beef shin<br />
2 large carrots, finely diced<br />
2 large sticks celery, lightly peeled and finely diced<br />
2 onions, finely diced<br />
2 bay leaves, slightly torn<br />
1 tin good quality chopped tomatoes<br />
1 bottle red wine (not crap)<br />
2 large cloves garlic, very finely chopped<br />
A large sprig of thyme, leaves only<br />
Pasta, to serve</p>
<p><strong>For the gremolata</strong></p>
<p>Handful parsley leaves, very finely chopped<br />
2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped<br />
Zest of 2 unwaxed lemons, finely chopped or grated (if you can only get waxed lemons, give them a good scrub under a hot tap)</p>
<p>Add some olive oil to a large, heavy based pan and add the onions, celery, carrots, bay leaves and garlic and sweat gently, with the lid on, for 10-15 minutes until they softened. Season the beef shin well all over and add it, plus everything else. Bring to the boil then turn down very low, put the lid on and simmer gently for 3-4 hours, until the sauce is thick and the meat is falling off the bone. Remove all the pieces of bone and discard. Flake up the meat if it hasn&#8217;t done so by itself and add back to the sauce. Adjust the seasoning and serve mixed through pasta of your choice (papardelle is good as it is quite big and robust).</p>
<p>For the gremolata, just mix everything together and sprinkle over your pasta.
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		<title>The Best Chicken Sandwich of My Life&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/the-best-chicken-sandwich-of-my-life/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/the-best-chicken-sandwich-of-my-life/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 13 Feb 2010 12:42:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sandwiches]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[best ever chicken sandwich]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chicken mayo sandwich]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chicken mayonnaise sandwich]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chicken with 40 cloves of garlic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garlic mayo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garlic mayonnaise]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2789</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
FACT.
I was more excited about this sandwich than I was about the dish that made it happen &#8211; chicken with 40 cloves of garlic. That&#8217;s the kind of tunnel vision you find yourself dealing with when you&#8217;re a sandwich obsessive; always focused on where the next fix is coming from. It wasn&#8217;t just the leftover [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4338065768_1d59881a55.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4338065768_1d59881a55.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Total heaven coming up in 3...2...1..." src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4338065768_1d59881a55.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>FACT.</p>
<p>I was more excited about this sandwich than I was about the dish that made it happen &#8211; <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/chicken-with-40-cloves-of-garlic/" target="_blank">chicken with 40 cloves of garlic</a>. That&#8217;s the kind of tunnel vision you find yourself dealing with when you&#8217;re a sandwich obsessive; always focused on where the next fix is coming from. It wasn&#8217;t just the leftover chicken that got me thinking so much as all that remaining oil &#8211; 200ml of the stuff. It struck me that this precious garlic, herb and chicken infused oil would make possibly the best garlicky mayonnaise I&#8217;d ever tasted. It did.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2798/4337546751_a1698c1154.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2798/4337546751_a1698c1154.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Golden garlicky mayo" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2798/4337546751_a1698c1154.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="378" /></a></p>
<p>I&#8217;ve never mixed mayonnaise so carefully, such was the strength of my opinion that this oil was the most exquisite leftover to pass my way in a very long time. The result was a wobbly pot of  yellow goo which had &#8217;stick me in your face or stick your face in me right now&#8217; written all over it. I mixed it with chunks of the leftover white and dark chicken meat and of course, lots of crispy skin bits.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4338039290_0fc64e155d.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4338039290_0fc64e155d.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="The Build" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4338039290_0fc64e155d.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="455" /></a></p>
<p>It was time for The Build. This starts with the best bread you can find &#8211; I chose a classic white bloomer from the German bakery Luca&#8217;s in East Dulwich. It ain&#8217;t cheap but the bread is worth it; dense crumb, real flavour, perfect crust. Chicken-mayo mix heaps generously on one side of the sandwich and I smeared a few of those sweet roasted cloves onto the other.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4338054310_93dcf6e8a7.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4338054310_93dcf6e8a7.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Chicken sandwich tower" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4338054310_93dcf6e8a7.jpg" alt="" width="391" height="500" /></a></p>
<p>With richness of course must come balance and the bitter leaves of a curly endive mixed with lemon juice and generous amounts of salt and pepper did the job perfectly.</p>
<p>All that could be heard for a full five minutes was chewing, interspersed by me spluttering, &#8220;best&#8230;chomp chomp&#8230;chicken&#8230;chomp&#8230;sandwich&#8221; &#8211; pieces of stray endive dropping on to my top and blobs of mayonnaise on my chin. It wasn&#8217;t pretty; I was out of control. Such is the power of a good sandwich.</p>
<p><strong>My Ultimate Chicken Sandwich</strong></p>
<p>First, you need to improve your quality of life considerably by treating yourself to <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/chicken-with-40-cloves-of-garlic/" target="_blank">this dish</a>. Then you&#8217;re set to take the highway straight to leftover heaven central.</p>
<p>First, make your mayo. Put two large egg yolks in a clean bowl and whisk them together. Begin adding the oil a few drops at a time, whisking as you do so and making sure each bit of oil is fully incorporated before adding the next. As you whisk more oil in and the mayo starts to thicken, you can start adding the oil in slightly larger quantities until you are steadily adding it in a thin stream. The key with mayo is to be cautious with the oil until you get a feel for making it. If you add too much at once, it will split. If this happens, don&#8217;t despair. Take a fresh egg yolk in a clean bowl and begin adding the split mixture into it, very slowly, just as if it were the oil. This should bring it back.</p>
<p>Stop when the mayo reaches the desired thickness. Add lemon juice and seasoning to taste.</p>
<p><em>(This, by the way, is why I didn&#8217;t use extra fruity olive oil when I made my chicken, as the flavour would have been too strong for the mayo. The leftover oil is also great for roasting vegetables &#8211; particularly broccoli, and in salad dressings). </em></p>
<p>Mix the mayo with your leftover meat and heap onto one piece of bread. Spread some leftover garlic cloves on the other piece. Add some curly endive or other bitter salad leaves mixed with a generous amount of lemon juice and seasoning. Sandwich together. Eat and forget your troubles ever existed.
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		<title>Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/chicken-with-40-cloves-of-garlic/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/chicken-with-40-cloves-of-garlic/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Feb 2010 20:13:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Main Dishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chicken]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chicken with 40 cloves of garlic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garlic chicken]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[roast chicken]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2757</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
I&#8217;ll admit from the off that I was slightly scared. Not by the quantity of garlic you understand &#8211; of course it mellows considerably with roasting &#8211; but by the oil; 250ml of olive oil settled into a deep golden pool in the bottom of my battle scarred roasting dish. I did consider slashing the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4336655791_7b97e542ac.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4336655791_7b97e542ac.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Garlicky, Garlicky Chicken Leg" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4336655791_7b97e542ac.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="483" /></a></p>
<p>I&#8217;ll admit from the off that I was slightly scared. Not by the quantity of garlic you understand &#8211; of course it mellows considerably with roasting &#8211; but by the oil; 250ml of olive oil settled into a deep golden pool in the bottom of my battle scarred roasting dish. I did consider slashing the amount but then as someone pointed out in the comments on <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/how-i-learned-to-love-tofu/" target="_blank">my tofu post</a> recently &#8211; I don&#8217;t do things by halves.</p>
<p>This dish comes from Provence, land of olive oil and garlic. A full forty cloves stew gently in the fruity elixir, and by the time the chicken is cooked, they are transformed to a soft savoury paste which can be squidged from its papery home and smeared onto the chicken, or good bread, or into mashed potato. A sprig or two of thyme and a couple of bay leaves add their own perfume and the whole heady medley gets right into that chicken &#8211; and your soft furnishings &#8211; beautifully. Febreeze eat your heart out.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4337393424_a64739bef5.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4337393424_a64739bef5.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Roasted Garlic Cloves" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4337393424_a64739bef5.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="381" /></a></p>
<p>If you are thinking of making this dish &#8211; and I cannot encourage you enough to do so &#8211; then <a href="http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/article5982759.ece" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/article5982759.ece?referer=');">this article</a> and <a href="http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/recipes/article5985420.ece" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/recipes/article5985420.ece?referer=');">this one</a>, are definitely worth a read. There are a few controversial points to consider, such as whether to peel or not to peel when it comes to the garlic (don&#8217;t) and whether or not one should brown the chicken before roasting. I recommend that you do. The whole thing is baked under foil you see and I ended up having to try and crisp at the last minute once I got around to thinking about what was (or was not) going to happen. Flabby chicken skin does not float my boat.</p>
<p>Once you&#8217;ve browned then, the bird goes into the roaster (or a suitable casserole like a Le Creuset) and is surrounded by the other ingredients. I also shoved some plant matter into the cavity. A bit of lemon would have been nice. The bird is seasoned generously, covered with foil and baked for 45-50 minutes; the result is roast chicken heaven. I&#8217;ve never eaten a bird like it, and I&#8217;ve roasted a fair few chickens in my time.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4336639359_2a40427868.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4336639359_2a40427868.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="The oil! " src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4336639359_2a40427868.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="386" /></a></p>
<p>When it comes to resting, I recommend positioning her with her legs (mine spectacularly yellow, from corn feeding) sticking up in the air &#8211; a trick I learned from <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/01/a-pig-masterclass-at-trinity/" target="_blank">Adam Byatt at Trinity</a>. This means that all the juices seep down towards the breast, leaving you with moist, succulent meat. To serve, most recommend mashed potato but I just didn&#8217;t fancy it in the face of all that richness and made a salad of bitter curly endive dressed liberally with a lemony dressing. Juices were mopped with hunks of good bread.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m really happy that I went the whole hog with this dish, because the leftover oil has been a source of much excitement over the past couple of days. I can&#8217;t wait to tell you what I did with the leftovers. The carcass went into the stock pot too so that one decent chicken has been the base for three meals each for two people. It&#8217;s the gift that just keeps on giving.</p>
<p><strong>Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic </strong>(I basically used <a href="http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/recipes/article5985420.ece" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/recipes/article5985420.ece?referer=');">this recipe</a>)<strong><br />
</strong></p>
<p>One well treated, free-range chicken<br />
250ml olive oil (I didn&#8217;t go too fruity because I had plans for the remains. All will soon be revealed)<br />
40 cloves of garlic or thereabouts (that&#8217;s four whole bulbs), papery bits removed but not peeled<br />
A sprig of thyme (plus a bit extra for the cavity)<br />
A sprig of rosemary (I didn&#8217;t use this, but it can&#8217;t be a bad thing)<br />
2 bay leaves<br />
A bit of lemon would be nice come to think of it<br />
Salt and pepper and lots of it</p>
<p>Preheat the oven to 180C</p>
<p>Un-truss the chicken and remove all fat from the cavity &#8211; if you look just inside there are two blobs, one on either side &#8211; cut them off. Drizzle a little oil over the chicken and rub it in. You can now brown the chicken on the stove top, which is what I wish I&#8217;d done. You can use your casserole or roasting dish for this if it&#8217;s big enough, and then just transfer it into the oven.</p>
<p>Surround it with the garlic cloves, herbs and bay, then stick the other herbs (and maybe lemon) inside the cavity. Pour the oil around. Season the chicken very generously, then cover with foil and seal tightly. Roast it for 45-90 minutes depending on the size of your chicken. Baste it 2-3 times during cooking. The chicken is cooked when you insert a skewer at the thickest part of the leg and when pressed gently, the juices run clear. The legs will also feel looser when the bird is cooked.</p>
<p>Rest the bird with its legs in the air, covered with foil. It will sit happily for at least 20 minutes, while you make a salad, cut some bread, pour a glass of wine etc. Serve with a little of the oil drizzled over the top, a bitter green salad and some good bread or potatoes.
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		<title>Chicken Pie for Lurpak</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/chicken-pie-for-lurpak/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/chicken-pie-for-lurpak/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Feb 2010 13:04:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Media]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chicken pie recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lurpak]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lurpak butter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lurpak butter ad campaign]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pie Lurpak butter. Chicken and fennel pie]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2743</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
I have been asked many times to name the ingredient I cannot live without. The answer has always been the same: butter. Fat makes things taste good and we all know it. Crumpets oozing with butter that dribbles down your chin with every bite; a roast chicken smothered and crisped and dipped in the buttery [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4333874313_eef0ccb011.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4333874313_eef0ccb011.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Pie I made for the Lurpak ads" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4333874313_eef0ccb011.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="259" /></a></p>
<p>I have been asked many times to name the ingredient I cannot live without. The answer has always been the same: butter. Fat makes things taste good and we all know it. <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/01/cracking-crumpets/" target="_blank">Crumpets</a> oozing with butter that dribbles down your chin with every bite; a roast chicken smothered and crisped and dipped in the buttery pan juices; a <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/01/dhal-stuffed-parathas/" target="_blank">fresh hot paratha</a> smeared generously with ghee. You get the idea.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4334614694_3e4c8e53da.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4334614694_3e4c8e53da.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Me and home economist in the kitchen making PIE!" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4334614694_3e4c8e53da.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a></p>
<p>As a blogger you get approached by a lot of people wanting you to help them promote things;  e-mails ping into the inbox with the opening line, &#8220;I think this may be of interest to your readers.&#8221; This one was different though. For a start they actually wanted me to go and cook something which, you know, I&#8217;m quite keen on doing and secondly, well, I really love butter don&#8217;t I. Would I come and make a pie for the new Lurpak ad campaign? Damn right I would.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4334615842_92f9071012.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4334615842_92f9071012.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Pie going in the oven" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4334615842_92f9071012.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a></p>
<p>And so I found myself at a studio in Shoreditch one sunny afternoon cooking up a chicken and fennel pie. There was also a home economist there who, thankfully, was very entertaining. I usually can&#8217;t stand sharing a kitchen with anyone. We made two pies, just to make sure that they could capture &#8216;the shot&#8217;. The idea was to make the pie look as &#8216;epic&#8217; as possible. It had to be a beast &#8211; a tall, proud, epic beast. This was where the home economist came in, employed as she is to make food look &#8216;right&#8217; for ads and mags and books etc.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4333873339_3c1f26340d.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4333873339_3c1f26340d.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Photographing the pie" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4333873339_3c1f26340d.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a></p>
<p>The result was a shiny domed beauty; a steaming, puffy, bubbling pot of meat and pastry. I wanted to eat it but of course, couldn&#8217;t. It was whisked away to be lit and snapped and lit and snapped again. It was a whole new world to me, this advertising business. The main thing I learned is that there is a huge amount of hanging around. All in all though, a fun day and an experience I&#8217;d definitely repeat. They also asked me to come in for a casting for the TV ad, but sadly I couldn&#8217;t make the date, being as I was on my way to <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/11/wine-facing-the-fear/" target="_blank">Lisbon</a>.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4333874115_14710114ce.jpg" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4333874115_14710114ce.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Pie all lit up" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4333874115_14710114ce.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a></p>
<p>In the end, that perfect shot was achieved and it was time for me to go home and for <a href="http://www.cooksister.com/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.cooksister.com/?referer=');">Jeanne</a> to start baking her cupcakes. The ad campaign is featured on billboards around the country &#8211; I&#8217;ve already seen it in Old Street and last night spotted one on my own turf in Peckham! It&#8217;s rather nice to see my little pie all big and out there on its own in the city, doing its best to encourage people to cook and use more butter. Now that&#8217;s a message I can really get behind.</p>
<p><strong>Chicken and Fennel Pie</strong></p>
<p>(fills an 18-20cm pie dish)</p>
<p>1 free-range chicken, cooked (I used a roast chicken but you could use cooked chicken pieces if you don&#8217;t want to roast one).<br />
2 bulbs fennel, tops, bottoms and core removed and finely sliced<br />
1/2 large onion, sliced<br />
4 rasher smoked bacon, diced<br />
1 large leek, sliced<br />
3 cloves garlic, crushed<br />
1 small handful of chopped parsley<br />
Splash of white wine<br />
A dollop of wholegrain mustard (optional)<br />
Oil, for cooking</p>
<p>350 &#8211; 400ml bechamel or white sauce (bought or home made)</p>
<p><strong>For the pastry</strong></p>
<p>The pastry is puff but I prefer shortcrust so here&#8217;s my recipe. Just use whichever you prefer.</p>
<p>100g Lurpak, at room temperature<br />
220g plain flour (not strong white bread flour)<br />
A large pinch of salt<br />
1 egg, beaten</p>
<p>Prepare the pastry by sieving the flour and salt into a large bowl. Cut the softened butter into cubes and add it to the bowl. Using a knife, start cutting the butter into the flour until it is fairly well mixed. You can now use your hands to start rubbing the butter into the flour &#8211; do this as lightly as possible. If you try to squidge the butter between your fingers too much the pastry will become tough. When it resembles fine crumbs, get some cold water (the colder the better) and add a tablespoon at a time, cutting it in with the knife each time, until it starts to come together. When it starts to form large lumps, use your hands to bring it together into a ball. It should leave the bowl clean. Rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.</p>
<p>Heat a splash of olive oil in a pan and add the bacon to it. Once the bacon is cooked add the leeks, garlic, fennel and onion (plus the wine if using) and cook on a very low heat with the lid on for around 15 minutes.</p>
<p>Preheat your oven to 200C.</p>
<p>To assemble the pie divide the pastry into two portions &#8211; one portion should be two thirds of the total amount and this will be the base and sides of the pie. The remaining pastry will form the lid. Roll out the base pastry into a circle shape on a lightly floured surface. The shape will need to be larger than your dish as it needs to form the sides of the pie also. Carefully lower this into the dish. Roll out the lid and set aside.</p>
<p>Mix the chicken, fennel mixture, mustard (if using), parsley and bechamel together. Take care when adding the bechamel. Add a little at a time to get an idea of how much you will need. Season the mixture with salt and pepper then fill the pie and top with the lid. You want the lid to overlap the sides of the pie dish. Crimp it down to make sure it is sealed. Cut a cross in the top with a knife and brush with the beaten egg.</p>
<p>Bake for 20-30 minutes at 200C until golden brown.</p>
<p><em>The other bloggers involved were Jeanne, who made <a href="http://www.cooksister.com/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.cooksister.com/?referer=');">these cupcakes</a> and <a href="http://didyouputgarlic.blogspot.com/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/didyouputgarlic.blogspot.com/?referer=');">Mary-Rose</a>, who made a roast chicken.</em></p>
<p><em>The photos above are used with the kind permission of <a href="http://www.wklondon.com/" target="_blank" onclick="urchinTracker('/outgoing/www.wklondon.com/?referer=');">Wieden and Kennedy</a> and thanks to the whole team who were nothing but a pleasure to work with.</em>
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