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<channel>
	<title>Food Stories &#187; Soups</title>
	<atom:link href="http://helengraves.co.uk/category/soups/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://helengraves.co.uk</link>
	<description>Food and drink from Peckham</description>
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		<title>French Onion Soup (AoL Lifestyle)</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2011/12/french-onion-soup-aol-lifestyle/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2011/12/french-onion-soup-aol-lifestyle/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Dec 2011 08:24:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[AoL Lifestyle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soups]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[French onion soup recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gruyere croutons]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gruyere on toast]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[onion soup recipe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=7548</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[French onion is probably my favourite of all soups; it doesn&#8217;t sound like much, but this boozy allium brew always warms right through to the marrow. I love the process of slowly, slowly caramelising onions; the transformation from gassy tear-jerkers to a sweet, soft and sticky mass is one of those magical kitchen processes that should [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="aligncenter" title="French onion soup" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7149/6492558635_773ef0267d.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
<p>French onion is probably my favourite of all soups; it doesn&#8217;t sound like much, but this boozy allium brew always warms right through to the marrow. I love the process of slowly, slowly caramelising onions; the transformation from gassy tear-jerkers to a sweet, soft and sticky mass is one of those magical kitchen processes that should be undertaken mindfully and with love. For a soup made of onions, it&#8217;s surprisingly filling; possibly something to do with the copious amounts of Gruyere on toast I make to go with it. Ahem. Head over to <a href="http://lifestyle.aol.co.uk/2011/12/12/one-pot-winter-warmers-french-onion-soup/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/lifestyle.aol.co.uk/2011/12/12/one-pot-winter-warmers-french-onion-soup/?referer=');">AoL for the recipe</a>.</p>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Ham Hock and White Bean Soup (AoL Lifestyle)</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2011/11/ham-hock-and-white-bean-soup-aol-lifestyle/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2011/11/ham-hock-and-white-bean-soup-aol-lifestyle/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Nov 2011 09:26:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[AoL Lifestyle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lunchbox]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Main Dishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pulses]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soups]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cannelini beans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[green sauce]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ham hock and white bean soup recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[haricot beans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork broth recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork knuckle soup recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[salsa verde]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=7420</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#8217;m very much into cooking with ham hocks (or knuckles) again after the pibil, so I&#8217;ve made a porky white bean broth for AoL Lifestyle, super-charged with a salsa verde-like green sauce. Find the recipe over on AoL.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="aligncenter" title="Ham hock and white bean soup with green sauce " src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6048/6377044555_efcf63b6f4.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
<p>I&#8217;m very much into cooking with ham hocks (or knuckles) again after <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2011/11/pork-knuckle-pibil/" target="_blank">the pibil</a>, so I&#8217;ve made a porky white bean broth for AoL Lifestyle, super-charged with a salsa verde-like green sauce. Find <a href="http://lifestyle.aol.co.uk/2011/11/21/ham-hock-and-white-bean-soup-with-green/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/lifestyle.aol.co.uk/2011/11/21/ham-hock-and-white-bean-soup-with-green/?referer=');">the recipe over on AoL</a>.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>10</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Squid, pork and clam stew</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/10/squid-pork-and-clam-stew/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/10/squid-pork-and-clam-stew/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Oct 2010 20:12:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Main Dishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Seafood]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Shellfish]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soups]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Stews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Catalan stew]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chorizo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[clam stew]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jamon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork stew]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[smoked paprika]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soup]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[squid pork and clam stew]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[squid stew]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=4739</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When on holiday in Spain, my mates and I bought a packet of jamon off-cuts; the stubby pieces from the end of a leg of ham which are no good for carving but better (we presumed) for slow cooked dishes, like stews. We didn&#8217;t have time to use them while there due to the sheer, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1116/5114663149_2c8cda63dc.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm2.static.flickr.com/1116/5114663149_2c8cda63dc.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Squid, pork and clam stew " src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1116/5114663149_2c8cda63dc.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>When on holiday in Spain, my mates and I bought a packet of jamon off-cuts; the stubby pieces from the end of a leg of ham which are no good for carving but better (we presumed) for slow cooked dishes, like stews. We didn&#8217;t have time to use them while there due to the sheer, greedy quantity of other food we&#8217;d bought but as they would keep well, I brought them back and made a promise to cook something at a later date. Inspiration came from a squid dish we&#8217;d eaten in a local restaurant in L&#8217;Escala &#8211; tender rings in a rich, reduced tomato sauce. I wanted to re-create it and, as ever, considered what would happen if I added some pig.</p>
<p>I fried the off-cuts until the fat melted then used that as a base for a tomato, red pepper and smoked paprika sauce, cooked down very slowly for 3 hours or more. It&#8217;s a weekend job, so I made a big batch and shoved some in the freezer. After that, it&#8217;s just a case of simmering the squid until tender. I also added some clams last minute because I love the combination of shellfish and pork. To finish, a picada, Catalan-style: crushed garlic, breadcrumbs  and toasted ground almonds which thicken the sauce and add punch. A sprinkle of parsley, a wedge of lemon and serve. We mopped it up with torn chunks of a crusty white loaf, washed it down with Brew Dog beers and re-acquainted ourselves with the level of smugness we&#8217;d felt while on holiday.</p>
<p><strong>Squid, pork and clam stew </strong></p>
<p><em>For the base tomato sauce </em></p>
<p>1 packet of jamon off-cuts (sorry, I can&#8217;t remember the quantity but I reckon about 200g. Chorizo would make a good substitute)<br />
5 tomatoes<br />
2 red peppers<br />
1 large stick of celery<br />
2 large onions<br />
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika<br />
1 heaped teaspoon sugar</p>
<p>Begin by skinning the tomatoes. Cover them with boiling water then wait for about 5 minutes until their skins start to split. You can then take them out and peel the skins off.</p>
<p>Finely chop the peppers, celery and onions (it&#8217;s worth making the effort to chop them very finely). When the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, roughly chop them. Add a couple of tablespoons of vegetable or groundnut oil to a heavy based pan then add the pork bits until the fat has melted, stirring often over a medium-low heat.</p>
<p>When the fat has melted, add the vegetables, smoked paprika and sugar, bring to a simmer then reduce to the lowest heat. Put the lid on and let cook very gently for 3 hours if possible.</p>
<p><em>For the rest of the stew</em></p>
<p>2 medium squid<br />
2 handfuls clams<br />
A couple of tablespoons chopped parsley<br />
500ml vegetable or fish stock<br />
Lemons, to serve<br />
Bread, to serve</p>
<p>1 clove garlic, crushed<br />
1 slice dry white bread, made into crumbs<br />
50g almonds, lightly toasted</p>
<p>Make the picada by toasting the almonds in a dry pan: move them around often over a medium heat until lightly golden. Grind them to a paste in a pestle and mortar. Mix them very well with the garlic and breadcrumbs.</p>
<p>When the tomato sauce is ready, heat your stock and add it to the tomato sauce. Add the squid, then simmer until the squid is tender, about 40 minutes. While the squid is cooking, clean your clams by submerging them in salted water for half an hour; this is so they spit out all the grit and other stuff you don&#8217;t want to eat. Drain them and add to the sauce for a few minutes, until their shells pop open. Add a tablespoon of picada, stir it in then taste and decide if you want any more. I found a tablespoon to be enough.</p>
<p>Ladle the stew into bowls, then scatter the parsley over and serve with lemon wedges, and the bread.</p>
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		<slash:comments>9</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Catalan-style fish stew</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/10/catalan-style-fish-stew/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/10/catalan-style-fish-stew/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Oct 2010 18:01:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fish]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Seafood]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soups]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Stews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Catalan fish soup]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Catalan fish stew]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fish soup recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[monkfish cheeks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mussels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[picada recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[prawns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[shellfish soup recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sofrito]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=4576</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A holiday always leaves a cook feeling inspired and a  rich squid stew in a restaurant in L&#8217;Escala set my mind racing about making my own version, with added pork. Before that experiment though, it was time to get some practice in the ways of a traditional Catalan stew. The beginning  is a sofrito &#8211; [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4111/5064211213_4d5a83b971.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4111/5064211213_4d5a83b971.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Catalan style fish stew" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4111/5064211213_4d5a83b971.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>A <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/10/the-anchovies-of-lescala-a-festival-and-a-recipe/" target="_blank">holiday</a> always leaves a cook feeling inspired and a  rich squid stew in a restaurant in L&#8217;Escala set my mind racing about making my own version, with added pork. Before that experiment though, it was time to get some practice in the ways of a traditional Catalan stew.</p>
<p>The beginning  is a sofrito &#8211; tomato sauce cooked long and slow to develop character and sweetness. I cheated on this and used a jar I had from <a href="http://www.brindisa.com/shop" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.brindisa.com/shop?referer=');">Brindisa</a> because, well, I had it. In this I simmered some squid pieces until tender. For my white fish, I scored a bargain on some monkfish cheeks at Moxon&#8217;s in East Dulwich. I asked for the cheapest firm white fish in the shop and that&#8217;s what he produced &#8211; big meaty chunks at a fraction of the price of the tail (I got 300g for a few quid). On the shellfish front, I dropped in a giant prawn per person and then clack, clack, clack as I stirred in some fiercely barnacled mussels.</p>
<p>At the end the stew is thickened with a picada &#8211; a mixture of breadcrumbs, garlic and toasted ground almonds. Such a magical combination. The garlic remains punchy yet not raw and the ground nuts enrich the broth, the breadcrumbs swell and thicken. A final squeeze of lemon at the table and a torn hunk of bread for scooping and it&#8217;s time to slurp, shell and mop. One of the most complex and delicious dishes I&#8217;ve eaten in a very long time.</p>
<p><strong>Catalan style fish stew </strong></p>
<p>300g firm white fish (I used monkfish cheeks), cut into bite size chunks<br />
200g mussels, cleaned and de-bearded<br />
1 giant prawn per person<br />
250g squid, slices into rings and tentacles roughly chopped<br />
1 teaspoon sweet paprika<br />
1 large onion, sliced<br />
A handful flatleaf parsley, chopped<br />
1 315g jar of sofrito or you can make your own<br />
1 litre fish or vegetable stock</p>
<p>Lemon wedges, to serve<br />
Bread, to serve</p>
<p><strong>For the picada</strong></p>
<p>1 clove garlic, crushed<br />
1 slice dry white bread, made into crumbs<br />
50g almonds, lightly toasted</p>
<p>Begin by sweating your onion in some groundnut or vegetable oil in a heavy based large pan. Cook it on a low heat for 20 minutes at least until the onions are very soft. Add your jar of sofrito plus the stock, paprika and squid and bring to a gentle simmer. Put a lid on and let cook gently for about an hour.</p>
<p>For the picada, pound all the ingredients together in a pestle and mortar until as smooth as possible.</p>
<p>Stir in a couple of tablespoons of the picada just before you add the remaining fish for the final few minutes of cooking. My prawns were very large so I added those for 2 minutes, plus the white fish and mussels for another 3 minutes. Garnish with the parsley and serve with lemon wedges and crusty bread.</p>
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		<title>Jamaican corn soup</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/08/jamaican-corn-soup/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/08/jamaican-corn-soup/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Aug 2010 17:45:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caribbean Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food From The Rye]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gluten-free]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soups]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Starters]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Caribbean corn soup recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jamaican corn soup recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sweetcorn soup recipe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=4209</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It&#8217;s the end of the summer and the corn is going cheap. I bought four cobs for a quid in Peckham yesterday and a frankly quite staggering twelve red peppers for the same. Twelve. Not joking. This soup only uses one you&#8217;ll be pleased to know, along with two cobs and some classic Caribbean flavours: [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4941519118_255d1aafe0.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4941519118_255d1aafe0.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Jamaican corn soup" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4941519118_255d1aafe0.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="398" /></a></p>
<p>It&#8217;s the end of the summer and the corn is going cheap. I bought four cobs for a quid in Peckham yesterday and a frankly quite staggering twelve red peppers for the same. Twelve. Not joking.</p>
<p>This soup only uses one you&#8217;ll be pleased to know, along with two cobs and some classic Caribbean flavours: thyme, scotch bonnet chilli and coconut. It&#8217;s a hearty mix, thickened with yellow split peas and potato but my version is light compared with other recipes which use pumpkin or squash and other vegetables. I prefer a fresher version which keeps the focus on the juicy bursts of corn. I strip one cob and slice the other so I&#8217;m not denied the pleasure of gnawing on it.</p>
<p>The scotch bonnet chilli is left whole and slit lengthways to release just moderate fruity heat and the creamy coconut milk smooths things over. It tastes tropical and most importantly, it celebrates the corn. At that price, it would be rude not to.</p>
<p><strong>Jamaican Corn Soup</strong></p>
<p>1 large onion, diced<br />
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped<br />
1 scotch bonnet chilli<br />
150g yellow split peas<br />
1 litre stock (I used vegetable)<br />
400ml tin of coconut milk<br />
2 sprigs of thyme<br />
2 cobs corn<br />
1 red pepper, diced<br />
1 large potato, diced</p>
<p>Heat a couple of tablespoons of vegetable or groundnut oil in a pan and add the onion. Let it sweat over a lowish heat for about 8 minutes then add the garlic for a couple of minutes more, taking care not to let it burn. Make a cut down the length of the chilli, but keep it intact and add it to the pan with the split peas, thyme and stock &#8211; simmer for 30 minutes.</p>
<p>Prepare the corn by shaving the kernels from one of the cobs, running your knife down the sides, top to bottom. Slice the other one into 2cm thick slices (I nicked that idea from <a href="http://www.deliciousmagazine.co.uk/recipes/jamaican-spiced-corn-soup" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.deliciousmagazine.co.uk/recipes/jamaican-spiced-corn-soup?referer=');">this recipe</a> recently. I also nicked their presentation). Add the corn, coconut milk and potato and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Add the red pepper for the final 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.</p>
<p>Allow the soup to cool a little then remove the chilli, thyme and corn slices (reserve the corn slices) and blend half the soup. If it is still quite hot then make sure not to fill the blender more than half way and hold the lid down because if you don&#8217;t you will end up with soup all over your kitchen. It will blast the lid off the blender. Return to the pan and add back the corn slices. Reheat if necessary, adjust the seasoning and serve.</p>
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		<slash:comments>13</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Mutton Paomo</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/08/mutton-paomo/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/08/mutton-paomo/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Aug 2010 19:31:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bread]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Main Dishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Noodles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pickles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soups]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Stews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Street Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[broth]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chinese]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Muslim bread]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mutton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[muttoon paomo recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pickled garlic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[silk road]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Xi'an food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Xi'an recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[xian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[yangrou paomo recipe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=4188</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I came across this dish when I was looking for new ways to eat pickled garlic, which is something I&#8217;ve been doing a lot. What a condiment. Spiky yet sweet, it&#8217;s an unusual and addictive flavour. My friend Sally Butcher who owns the Iranian shop and deli, Persepolis tells me that in the Middle East, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4923721593_b0eaf101f0.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4923721593_b0eaf101f0.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Paomo" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4923721593_b0eaf101f0.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>I came across this dish when I was looking for new ways to eat pickled garlic, which is something I&#8217;ve been doing a lot. What a condiment. Spiky yet sweet, it&#8217;s an unusual and addictive flavour. My friend Sally Butcher who owns the Iranian shop and deli, <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2008/09/persepolis/" target="_blank">Persepolis</a> tells me that in the Middle East, &#8220;they eat it with everything.&#8221; This makes sense to me.</p>
<p>On my internet travels I came across an apparently famous Chinese dish called the mutton or <em>yangrou paomo</em>; it&#8217;s from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xi%27an" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xi_27an?referer=');">Xi&#8217;an</a>, the result of cuisines converging via the Silk Road. Small pieces of unleavened &#8216;Muslim flat bread&#8217; are an Arabian influence; the diner tears the bread into peanut-sized pieces and returns the bowl to the cook who tops it with mutton slices, spiced broth and often, glass noodles.* The dough pieces swell to form springy nuggets as they soak up the liquid. Common accompaniments are chilli paste, coriander leaves and most importantly, the pickled garlic. I was having me some of that.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4901571163_abe71a2ded.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4901571163_abe71a2ded.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="pickled garlic" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4901571163_abe71a2ded.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="348" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4923713715_d526225a6c.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4923713715_d526225a6c.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Unleavened bread" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4923713715_d526225a6c.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="367" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4923718181_55e739db63.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4923718181_55e739db63.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Bread ready for broth" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4923718181_55e739db63.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>The bread was a bit of a ball-ache. An e-mail exchange with <a href="http://sunflower-recipes.blogspot.com/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/sunflower-recipes.blogspot.com/?referer=');">Sunflower</a> revealed that it&#8217;s usually a &#8220;heavy, griddled bun similar to an English muffin&#8221; but attempts to find a recipe failed. I considered substituting a muffin but it seemed the wrong way to approach a challenge. In the end I used the ingredients found scrawled on a piece of paper, apparently the results of a frantic searching session; I have no recollection. Cooked in a dry pan, it was dense enough to form the desired sticky dumplings rather than gummy mush.</p>
<p>Mostly you just need to chuck everything in a pot, but it will take a good three hours  to cook, so one for the weekend. Other recipes cook broth and meat separately but I didn&#8217;t have time for that so I asked the butcher  to cut up a leg of mutton and simmered the meat and bones together. Mighty black  cardamom pods swelled like giant raisins on the broth, releasing their smoky, underground flavour. A lean over the pot made my nostrils buzz with chilli and star anise.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4924305470_dc65f2fe16.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4924305470_dc65f2fe16.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Paomo ingredients" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4924305470_dc65f2fe16.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4923728051_8296178ca4.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4923728051_8296178ca4.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Paomo" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4923728051_8296178ca4.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>I&#8217;m pretty sure that this dish only partly resembles the real thing. I needed more broth in the bowl that&#8217;s for sure and usually the meat would be added separately before the hot stock is poured over. At least, that&#8217;s what I managed to glean from some rather dodgy translation. I do know however, that the dish is the most famous contribution of Xi&#8217;an to Chinese cuisine and   apparently, served nearly everywhere in the city and also as part  of  the state banquet. I think it&#8217;s fair to say they are proud of  it. If I&#8217;ve made it wrong or done it a disservice then I apologise but in my defence, it tasted great.</p>
<p><strong>Mutton Paomo</strong> (<em>Yangrou Paomo</em>)</p>
<p>1kg of mutton (mostly chunks of meat and a few large pieces of bone)<br />
2 onions, roughly chopped<br />
4 cloves of garlic, crushed<br />
1 x 2 inch piece of ginger, finely grated<br />
1 mild red chilli, slit lengthways or chopped (I slit mine as I wanted to add chilli paste as a garnish)<br />
200g glass noodles*<br />
2.5 teaspoons of salt<br />
8 peppercorns<br />
2 star anise<br />
A few pieces of cassia bark<br />
3 black cardamom pods, crushed with the side of a knife<br />
2 tablespoons cooking wine</p>
<p>Pickled garlic (available from Persepolis and Khan&#8217;s if you live in Peckham), plus chilli paste and coriander leaves to garnish</p>
<p>Trim your meat of any large pieces of fat. Put your meat, bones and everything else apart from the noodles and garnish into a large stock pot. If you want to get fancy, you could bundle your spices into a piece of muslin to make them easier to remove later on. Cover with water (mine took about 3 litres) and bring to the boil. Turn down to a simmer and allow to cook, uncovered for about 3 hours. After this time, remove the bones, whole spices and any remaining pieces of visible fat. I now allowed the broth to cool and skimmed the excess fat from the top. There is already enough fat in the broth to give a good flavour.</p>
<p>Cook the noodles according to packet instructions.</p>
<p>To serve, re-heat and spoon over peanut sized pieces of the bread (recipe below). Add a serving of noodles to the bowl and garnish as desired with the chilli, coriander and pickled garlic.</p>
<p><strong>For the bread</strong></p>
<p>300g plain (all purpose) flour<br />
1 teaspoon salt<br />
200ml boiling water<br />
1 tablespoon lard, softened (by softened I mean leave it out until completely soft)</p>
<p>Mix all the ingredients together until you have a smooth dough. Let it rest for a little while before rolling it out into 8 pieces, about 4-5 inches in diameter. Wipe a heavy skillet or tava with oil and cook each bread for 5 minutes or so on each side until lightly golden. To serve, tear into small pieces and spoon the broth and condiments on top.</p>
<p><em>* As you can see, I only had wheat noodles. </em></p>
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		<slash:comments>10</slash:comments>
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		<title>Two Garlic Soup</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/05/two-garlic-soup/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/05/two-garlic-soup/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 02 May 2010 12:14:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Soups]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garlic soup]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[two garlic soup]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wild garlic soup]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=3303</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I actually can&#8217;t stop eating outrageous amounts of garlic. One or two cloves is no longer an acceptable amount. The obsession gently rumbles on. In contrast, I like to think that my immune system is racing ahead, building lymphocytes faster than you can say &#8216;flu&#8217;. In reality, rather than glowing with shiny health I&#8217;m sure [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4550019959_e63f249192.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4550019959_e63f249192.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Two Garlic Soup" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4550019959_e63f249192.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="398" /></a></p>
<p>I actually can&#8217;t stop eating outrageous amounts of garlic. One or two cloves is no longer an acceptable amount. The obsession gently rumbles on. In contrast, I like to think that my immune system is racing ahead, building lymphocytes faster than you can say &#8216;flu&#8217;. In reality, rather than glowing with shiny health I&#8217;m sure I just gently whiff of garlic. Constantly.</p>
<p>Gorgeous little soup though, even if it is rather rich. I based it on <a href="http://www.101cookbooks.com/archives/richard-olneys-garlic-soup-recipe.html" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.101cookbooks.com/archives/richard-olneys-garlic-soup-recipe.html?referer=');">this one</a> but reduced the amount of regular cloves, omitted the sage and added a small handful of the wild garlic I picked at <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/04/riverford-organic-farm/" target="_blank">Riverford Farm</a>. The soup is interesting because it goes from looking like hot dishwater with a few pearly cloves bobbing on the bubbles to a creamy, velveteen elixir; pretty amazing considering it doesn&#8217;t contain even the merest smidgen of cream. It is instead enriched with the rather wanky sounding &#8216;binding pomade&#8217; &#8211; a combination of eggs, Parmesan and olive oil. You slowly whisk the oil into the cheese and amber yolks, then a ladleful of the broth into the &#8216;pomade&#8217; and then the whole lot back into the broth. It&#8217;s really rather a calming and leisurely process. I used the time to reflect on important issues such as where I might have left the key for the bin room, whether it was too early to open a beer or not and when I might find time to make <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/apr/17/yotam-ottolenghi-plenty-recipes-extract" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/apr/17/yotam-ottolenghi-plenty-recipes-extract?referer=');">Ottolenghi&#8217;s caramelised garlic tart</a>. Actually that last one really is important.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4533864401_49a55aa6c4.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4533864401_49a55aa6c4.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Wild Garlic" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4533864401_49a55aa6c4.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>The original recipe suggests pouring the finished soup over day-old pieces of baguette, which I did, but found the combination of rich soup and soggy bread paste rather unpleasant. Really unpleasant, actually. Like eating a piece of sodden bog roll. The second helping was much more enjoyable with a bit of traditional dunking and of course, the terminal wiping of bowl.</p>
<p>It is extremely garlicky but deeply savoury; the wild garlic brings its sprightly green bite. I would advise you to use good Parmesan, as it makes all the difference and a nice grassy olive oil that isn&#8217;t too strong. The finished thing is really rather pretty and spring-like I think, with a cheeky richness that makes a stealthy approach, soothing and satisfying with every mouthful.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4030/4550026341_46e827fd46.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4030/4550026341_46e827fd46.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Garlic Soup with Extra Cheese" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4030/4550026341_46e827fd46.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="404" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Two Garlic Soup </strong>(adapted from <a href="http://www.101cookbooks.com/archives/richard-olneys-garlic-soup-recipe.html" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.101cookbooks.com/archives/richard-olneys-garlic-soup-recipe.html?referer=');">this recipe</a>)<strong><br />
</strong></p>
<p>950ml water<br />
1 bay leaf<br />
1 teaspoon fresh thyme<br />
6 cloves of garlic, chopped<br />
1 teaspoon salt</p>
<p>For binding</p>
<p>1 egg<br />
2 egg yolks<br />
40g parmesan<br />
Pepper (white might be nice actually)<br />
50ml olive oil</p>
<p>Bring the water to a boil in a pan and add the thyme, bay leaf, garlic cloves and salt. Bring to the boil then turn down and simmer for 40 minutes. Strain into a bowl, then remove and discard the bay leaf and return the garlic and the infused water back to the pan but off the heat. Taste and add more salt if you like but remember the Parmesan is coming later.</p>
<p>Whisk the egg, the yolks, Parmesan and pepper together until creamy. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking constantly, as if you were making mayonnaise. Then, take a ladleful of the broth and do the same, whisking it really slowly into the oil mixture. Now tip the whole thing into the remaining broth in the pan and set over a low to medium heat, stirring all the time until it starts to thicken. Heidi mentions in her recipe that the creator of the original recipe, Richard Olney, says that it should be cooked, &#8220;just long enough to be no longer watery&#8221; but I agree with her that it is nicer when it&#8217;s a bit thicker.</p>
<p>Serve over bread or not &#8211; up to you. I prefer it not. I drizzled a bit more oil and grated a little extra cheese on top.</p>
<p><strong>Other garlicky goodness:</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/02/chicken-with-40-cloves-of-garlic/" target="_blank">Chicken with 40 cloves of garlic </a><br />
<a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/04/garlic-curry-with-chapatis-cucumber-pachadi/" target="_blank">Garlic Curry</a></p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Leberknoedelsuppe</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/01/leberknoedelsuppe/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2010/01/leberknoedelsuppe/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 31 Jan 2010 18:16:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Offal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soups]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Austrian deli London]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Austrian liver dumpling soup]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Austrian soup]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kipferl]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kipferl deli]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kipferl deli London]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[leberknoedelsuppe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[liver dumpling soup]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2679</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Austrian liver dumpling soup. I&#8217;ll admit, it doesn&#8217;t sound particularly appetising but then neither did a sausage containing cheese, and that turned out to be a delicious component of my &#8216;hot sausage meal&#8217; at Kipferl Austrian deli in Farringdon. This tiny space accommodates just six tables and several shelves of Austrian wines, bread and countless [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4319326672_a31b64d67d.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4319326672_a31b64d67d.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Liver Dumpling Soup" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4319326672_a31b64d67d.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="413" /></a></p>
<p>Austrian liver dumpling soup. I&#8217;ll admit, it doesn&#8217;t sound particularly appetising but then neither did a sausage containing cheese, and that turned out to be a delicious component of my &#8216;hot sausage meal&#8217; at Kipferl Austrian deli in Farringdon. This tiny space accommodates just six tables and several shelves of Austrian wines, bread and countless unfamiliar jars and bottles. You can also buy liver dumplings.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4309243419_c697049341.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4309243419_c697049341.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Kipferl deli" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4309243419_c697049341.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>When we arrived for lunch at 12.30pm two of the tables were already reserved and we were lucky that one &#8216;very regular&#8217; customer was just leaving.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4309984048_4c4672b66f.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4309984048_4c4672b66f.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Austrian Meats" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4309984048_4c4672b66f.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>Kipferl serves Viennese breakfast, cakes, cold platters, filled rolls, soups, salads and of course, those &#8216;hot sausage meals&#8217; which sounded like just the ticket for a rainy January Monday. I hastily ordered the &#8216;Kipferl special&#8217; with <em>käsekrainer</em>, then caught sight of the sausage with sauerkraut and pickles &#8211; a meal that sounds like it was made specially for me &#8211; and promptly started sulking.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4309236569_94cf4feb3e.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4309236569_94cf4feb3e.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Hot Sausage Meals" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4309236569_94cf4feb3e.jpg" alt="" width="375" height="500" /></a></p>
<p>The owner asked us what kind of sausage we would like. Er&#8230; He explained that a <em>weiner </em>would be your standard Austrian wurst (like a Frankfurter), the <em>debreziner</em> spicy and the <em> </em><em>käsekrainer</em> &#8211; a sausage with cheese. CHEESE. It sounded odd, which of course meant that I had to  have it.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4309976722_de16cc378d.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4309976722_de16cc378d.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="My sausage!" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4309976722_de16cc378d.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>It was surprisingly good. Tiny chunks of silky mellow cheese melt as the sausage is heated, creating an uncommonly juicy banger with a milky luxuriance that could easily be sickly if it wasn&#8217;t so well balanced. I particularly enjoyed the tight, crisp casing of the <em>käsekrainer</em>, which was so tense that every cut made me lean back slightly for fear of receiving a burst of molten pork fat to the eye. The accompanying salads were, I was relieved to find, lightly soused. This eased my regret at not ordering the sauerkraut and pickles and counteracted the succulent sausage perfectly; meaty lentils, soft potatoes and fresh, dill feathered cucumbers. A slice of rye and a dollop of  mustard were both very welcome guests at the party; the bread enabling a little light sandwich making and the mustard offering a placid, sweet tang.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2682/4319346628_b351dc5b6d.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2682/4319346628_b351dc5b6d.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Veg Stock" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2682/4319346628_b351dc5b6d.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="378" /></a></p>
<p>The liver dumpling soup turned out well too. All you do (according to Kipferl&#8217;s owner &#8211; oh how I wish I&#8217;d asked his name), is plop the dumplings into simmering vegetable stock before garnishing with chives. One dumpling per person or two if you are very hungry. Of course, I did two. The stock I made heavy on the alliums, what with onions and liver being such happy partners. The dumplings taste a lot like faggots but with a slightly finer texture; since a primary ingredient of faggots is pig&#8217;s liver, this is hardly surprising.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4319339242_8fb6058b90.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4319339242_8fb6058b90.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Liver Dumplings String" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4319339242_8fb6058b90.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>I could really get into Austrian food. Firstly, they love pork. I think we all know where I stand on that one. Secondly, they love pickles and well, do I really need to repeat the story about me eating so many pickles as a child that my lips would turn white? I&#8217;ve not managed to achieve that as an adult but believe me, it&#8217;s not for lack of trying.</p>
<p>I highly recommend seeking out Kipferl if you are in the area, but do consider reserving a table. The website also advises that &#8216;good things take time&#8217; and so if you are in a hurry, they advise calling ahead so that they can have your order ready when you get there.</p>
<p><strong><em>Kipferl</em></strong><br />
<strong><em>70 Long Lane</em></strong><br />
<strong><em>London</em></strong><br />
<strong><em>EC1A 9EJ</em></strong><br />
<strong><em>020 7796 2229</em></strong><br />
<strong><em><a href="http://www.kipferl.co.uk/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.kipferl.co.uk/?referer=');">www.kipferl.co.uk</a></em></strong></p>
<p><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1505243/restaurant/Farringdon/Kipferl-London" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1505243/restaurant/Farringdon/Kipferl-London?referer=');"><img alt="Kipferl on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1505243/minilogo.gif" style="border:none;width:104px;height:15px" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Leberknoedelsuppe</strong></p>
<p>First make a vegetable stock using two onions, 1 leek (split in half and well rinsed), several cloves of garlic, 2 carrots, 2 sticks of celery, 2 bay leaves, 10 peppercorns, some parsley stalks and any other veg trimmings you have lying around. Add some salt. Cover with water and simmer for about 45 minutes. Strain through a sieve then adjust the seasoning. (Gently frying the vegetables first in a little oil helps to increase depth of flavour but I forgot this time).</p>
<p>Return the stock to the pan before adding two liver dumplings per person. Simmer gently for twenty minutes. Ladle into bowls and garnish with chopped chives.</p>
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		<slash:comments>17</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Food From The Rye: Callaloo</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/12/food-from-the-rye-callaloo/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/12/food-from-the-rye-callaloo/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Dec 2009 17:45:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caribbean Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fish]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food From The Rye]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Main Dishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Peckham]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Side Dishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soups]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Stews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[callaloo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Peckham Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Peckham Rye]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://helengraves.co.uk/?p=2280</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I was worried that me and callaloo were doomed from the start. The soup always seems to contain a healthy amount of okra and I had a problem with this for two reasons: firstly, those hairy little fingers irritate the hell out of my (thankfully not so hairy) little fingers, bringing me out in a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2559/4195437286_7567ea05f0.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2559/4195437286_7567ea05f0.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Callaloo" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2559/4195437286_7567ea05f0.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="398" /></a></p>
<p>I was worried that me and callaloo were doomed from the start. The soup always seems to contain a healthy amount of okra and I had a problem with this for two reasons: firstly, those hairy little fingers irritate the hell out of my (thankfully not so hairy) little fingers, bringing me out in a rash, and secondly, most callaloo recipes called for them to simmer in the liquid for at least half an hour. This to me says one thing and one thing only: slime. Eating overcooked okra is like eating a fat slimy bogey; a big glutinous bowl of snot soup. Yum. Can&#8217;t wait.</p>
<p>After a bit of mental wrestling I came to the conclusion that omitting them entirely was not acceptable and so I fried the sappy slices until they were sappy no more, sealed instead by a crispy outer crust. They were added back at the last minute. Other than these (literally) irritating beasties, the soup contains pork, prawns, scotch bonnet chilli, thyme, two types of onion and of course, the callaloo. I think it&#8217;s safe to say there&#8217;s a lot going on.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2622/4195424556_ca4005dc96.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2622/4195424556_ca4005dc96.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Callaloo" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2622/4195424556_ca4005dc96.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="425" /></a></p>
<p>The flavour of the callaloo, which I bought tinned, is described somewhere on the great interwebz as, &#8216;a cross between spinach and cabbage&#8217;. That is exactly what it tastes like. Perhaps there&#8217;s a bit of asparagus in there as well. You get the idea. This predominantly &#8216;green&#8217; flavour, makes for a very vegetal soup. At first. Then comes pork and then, even-better-joy-of-joys, pork <em>fat</em>; melty pieces cling to each pink nugget with a seductive wobble. There is the odd surprise of shrimp but it&#8217;s not unpleasant.</p>
<p>At first I find the soup musty but as the spoonfuls pass this transforms into an intriguing peppery complexity. The coconut milk is not really discernible as its usual overwhelming self but instead sort of lingers around keeping things in order. The okra keep themselves to themselves.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2713/4195429380_0571166b7f.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2713/4195429380_0571166b7f.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Callaloo Prep" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2713/4195429380_0571166b7f.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>There&#8217;s no getting away from it &#8211; this is some seriously hearty fare and I&#8217;m amazed that it is usually served as a side dish, to act as a sort of gravy for other foods. Most of my <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/category/food-from-the-rye/" target="_blank">Rye Lane dishes</a> have been similar in weight and intensity. They are the kind of dishes that stick to your ribs; fortify, bolster and sustain.</p>
<p>That said, this soup also has an aromatic quality from the little love triangle going on between chilli, coconut and thyme; a surprising delicacy underneath it all really. But then that was the problem right there: so much in the mix, so many flavours and contrasts that all got a little bit muddy and confused. I really should have started with a simple version (no meat or fish) like the family recipe sent to me by a friend and <a href="http://thegingergourmand.blogspot.com/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/thegingergourmand.blogspot.com/?referer=');">blogger </a>yesterday.</p>
<p>Although I enjoyed the taste of the callaloo vegetable itself, I&#8217;m not sure I&#8217;ll be cooking with it that often. A green leafy vegetable from a tin is not really any contender for fresh spinach, kale or chard for example. Well, my version isn&#8217;t anyway. I basically made a fundamental schoolgirl error by choosing to make the nitrous oxide, big-bore, super-charged version when I should have started off with the understated yet reliable runner. You live and learn.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2699/4195432814_6212752bd2.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2699/4195432814_6212752bd2.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Callaloo" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2699/4195432814_6212752bd2.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="419" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Callaloo</strong></p>
<p>325g callaloo (drained weight)<br />
1 small white onion, finely chopped<br />
1 tablespoon thyme leaves<br />
3 spring onions, white and green parts, chopped<br />
125g thick bacon cubes<br />
225g small prawns<br />
150ml coconut milk<br />
200g okra, sliced<br />
1 small scotch bonnet chilli, de-seeded and chopped<br />
Stock &#8211; about 1 litre (I used vegetable)</p>
<p>Begin by frying the okra in a little oil until soft but crispy on the outside. Set aside on kitchen paper to soak up any oil. In a large pan, soften the onions and chilli gently for a few minutes before adding the callaloo, bacon, thyme and stock. Bring to the boil and then simmer for about 30 minutes before adding the prawns, okra and coconut milk for a further 2 or 3 minutes. Check the seasoning and serve.</p>
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		<title>Pheasant Soup</title>
		<link>http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/12/pheasant-soup/</link>
		<comments>http://helengraves.co.uk/2009/12/pheasant-soup/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Dec 2009 10:59:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Helen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Game]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soups]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[game soup]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pheasant]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pheasant soup]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[As I considered the plump little pheasant in my hands, my mind immediately jumped to a memory of casserole topped with a curly wurly crust of fresh dough &#8211; the bread risen and baked to a fluffy top, ready for ripping and dunking into the gamey broth below. Then I remembered my habit of lending [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2800/4174983782_e785323fed.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2800/4174983782_e785323fed.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Pheasant Soup" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2800/4174983782_e785323fed.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="364" /></a></p>
<p>As I considered the plump little pheasant in my hands, my mind immediately jumped to a memory of casserole topped with a curly wurly crust of fresh dough &#8211; the bread risen and baked to a fluffy top, ready for ripping and dunking into the gamey broth below. Then I remembered my habit of lending out dishes, roasting tins and baking trays, and the fact that my casserole dish has been similarly waylaid. I&#8217;m thinking of encouraging an amnesty: a box outside the front door where people can just slip the items in anonymously.</p>
<p>Casserole dreams shattered, I poo-pooed the idea of roasting and challenged myself to draw maximum flavour from this famously stupid bird. Generally found rooted to the middle of the country road, oblivious to screeching of tyres, beeping of horns and cursing of motorists &#8211; the thing practically tastes of stubbornness. Considering the fact they seem to sit around so much, pheasants are surprisingly lean and therefore easily dried out, plus those stringy, fusty-tasting drumsticks are, more often than not, plain unpleasant.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2569/4172072677_91486a3ccd.jpg" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/farm3.static.flickr.com/2569/4172072677_91486a3ccd.jpg?referer=');"><img class="aligncenter" title="Pheasant Ingredients" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2569/4172072677_91486a3ccd.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>I think much of the bird is better used as a flavour base and so I jointed him, slinging the legs into a pot with some aromatics (a.k.a the contents of the fridge plus some herbs and  juniper berries), along with the roughly chopped carcass. The breasts were pan-fried until barely cooked, ready to add back to the broth in the final moments of cooking. A few fine shreds of savoy cabbage gave extra nourishing winter heart and parsley, grassy pungency.</p>
<p>The resulting soup powered right through to our chilled, dampened bones with the kind of restorative effect that can only come from simmering some animal bits in a big old pot over a teeny little flame for a moderate amount of time.  A generous hunk of crusty loaf was plunged and plunged again into meaty depths, sucking up robust,  peppery juices; dunk slurp, dunk slurp and wipe the bowl clean. A piping hot end to a fine little bird and a cold winter&#8217;s day.</p>
<p><strong>Pheasant Soup</strong></p>
<p>1 pheasant<br />
1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped<br />
1 fat spring onion, roughly chopped<br />
1 small carrot, chopped into three<br />
A few juniper berries<br />
1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay and parsley stalks for example)<br />
500ml chicken stock<br />
500ml water<br />
A good slug of brandy (I used Courvoisier)<br />
40g butter<br />
30g flour<br />
1/2 small savoy cabbage, cored and leaves finely shredded<br />
About 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley</p>
<p>Put your pheasant breast side up on a chopping board and remove the legs by pulling them away from the breast and using a sharp knife to cut them at the joint. Remove each breast by cutting along either side of the central bone and then following the line of the carcass until the meat is free. Chop the carcass into a few pieces as best you can manage.</p>
<p>Rub the breasts with oil, season, and cook skin side down in a skillet on high heat for about 4 minutes, then turn and cook for another 2-3 minutes another until just cooked through. Set aside.</p>
<p>Put the legs and carcass pieces in a large pot and add the onion, spring onion, carrot, juniper berries, bouquet garni, brandy, stock and water, bring to the boil and then simmer gently for about 45 minutes, skimming every now and then if necessary. Remove the legs from the stock and set aside, then strain the soup through a fine sieve. Return to the pan.</p>
<p>Melt the butter in a separate pan then mix in the flour on a low heat. Stir this into the soup and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the shredded cabbage and simmer for another 10 minutes. Remove the meat from the legs, then shred the breast meat and add both back to the soup during the final few moments (you don&#8217;t want to cook it any more). Check the seasoning, add the parsley, and serve.</p>
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