Category: Blogging Events


Putting Good Oil to Good Use…

November 24th, 2008 — 10:13pm


Photo courtesy of Chris Osburnhere’s his photostream on Flickr

…how? In a delicious lip-smacker of a meal that’s how. Last week, Food Stories was rather chuffed to be dining with film (and now Good Oil) producers Henry Braham and Glynis Murray along with fellow bloggers and London foodie folk. We all gathered for some delicious home cooked grub, (courtesy of Braham and Murray’s charming son, Ben) – each course showing off the versatility of this splendid ingredient, squeezed, oozed and (cold) pressed from hemp seeds (no, it won’t get you high).

The oil is ridiculously healthy, seriously sustainable to produce and boasts a delicious, unique flavour. The predominant taste is nutty, although not overpoweringly so. You can basically use it just like an olive oil, which is exactly what I intend to do over the next few weeks and, most likely, beyond. You see, the taste isn’t the only good thing Good Oil has going on, it’s packin the essential fatty acids, Omega 3, 6 and 9, contains half the saturated fat of olive oil and zero trans fats – now that’s just showing off.


Pea and pecorino crostini

We kicked off the eating with some pea and pecorino crostini, a rather happy shade of green, smooth and chunky at the same time, fresh and slightly cheesy, with a gorgeous nuttiness from the oil.


Good Oil mash

Next up was a delicious venison and cranberry casserole served with Good Oil mash – I loved the little bursts of sweetness from the cranberries all soaking into the spuds. The oil made the mash feel wonderfully virtuous – I visualised the goodness going in, feeling healthier by the second.

Cheese, bread and salad arrived shortly afterwards and I wasted no time in drizzling some of the oil onto the blue and Cornish Yarg, which I can highly recommend. To finish, we feasted on vanilla ice cream drizzled with, you’ve guessed it – some more of that oil.


Ice cream with Good Oil

Strangely, I wasn’t the least bit sceptical about this combination and I am pleased to tell you with confidence that it works, it really works! If that meal doesn’t show you the versatility of Good Oil then I don’t know what will – although I’m sure to be cooking up a few ideas over the coming weeks. This morning I tried out Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s suggestion of sprinkling it on toast and very nice it was too.


Cheese, bread, salad and Good Oil

It was lovely to hear the story behind the oil – from the tragedy of the foot and mouth crisis, through the loss of entire crops and even a visit from the old bill – “growing a big field of hemp are we?” Braham and Murray have spent eight years refining the flavour of the oil – this is not the musty, dusty old bottles of hemp oil you used to see in a darkened corner of the health food shop, all weird and overpowering (hold your nose and swallow, it’s good for you!). It’s always a pleasure to spend time with people who truly believe in their product, and that is certainly the case here. I shall be welcoming Good Oil into my kitchen as will my fellow diners I am sure. All seated around the long wooden table, we couldn’t help commenting on how it felt like one big Good Oil family!


Henry Braham, Epicurienne and the dogs

Check out the Good Oil website for more information about the products and history. There’s also the Good Oil facebook page for titbits and recipes (you can even request a free sample).

10 comments » | Blogging Events, Products

Perfect Saturday in London: The Roundup

November 3rd, 2008 — 11:43am

Dancing at Notting Hill Carnival, 2007

A few weeks back, Krista from Londonelicious called for posts from fellow Londoners, the challenge being to outline their very own perfect Saturday in the capital. I loved this challenge, as not only did I get to think about my favourite places (although I agonised when it came to choosing) but I also added some new destinations (mostly food related) to my list (yes, there is a list). If you are visiting London, some of the best foodie and cultural treats are amongst this roundup, so come embrace this fantastic city and eat, drink and be merry like a local!

Firstly, here’s Krista’s original post, where the whole thing kicked off.

ML at SPAstic, Tales from a London Spa takes you around South Kensington and Notting Hill for a culture-filled day that ends in Holland Park.

Su-Lin at Tamarind & Thyme gets some culture AND shopping in as she trolls central London, with the riches she imagines.

Two entries from Mini-et-moi, a great site for modern mums in London. Sarah takes in Marylebone and The London Transport Museum while Michelle explores the South Bank, tots in tow.

Gourmet Chick hits all the foodie haunts–Ottolenghi, high tea at The Ritz, and Borough Market.

Danielle at Bloody Brilliant starts with a full English and then heads east to explore Brick Lane and Spitalfields.

Over at Gourmet Larder, Gregory  begins his day in Borough and then works his way south through Clapham and Vauxhall.

Leah from Curiosity and The Cupcake arrives at Broadway Market bright and early and then enjoys a leisurely stroll through Victoria Park and east London.

Christine over at If Music Be The Food of Love has a musical slant to her day as she explores Hampstead and hits the town with her idol.

Blogger Priyanka begins at Cafe au Lait in Brixton and ends her day at Meson De Felipe and The Beehive in Borough.

Another blogger choosing to start around Borough Market. Helen at Food Stories kicks off her Saturday with a visit to Tower Bridge, wanders over to Borough and then ends her day with a visit to Shunt and by checking out Dinner in The Sky.

Lizzie of Hollow Legs is very busy geographically and takes us through Blackheath, North Greenwich, Trafalgar Square, Belgravia, Shoreditch, Whitechapel, and then back to Shoreditch.

Charles of London guide Tipped.co.uk and his own blog, Grumblemouse, spends his perfect day in Islington, The City, Borough Market, Greenwich, and Shoreditch.

And finally, new-to-the-scene Liz (of Liz Does London, not to be confused with Lizzie above) hits Chelsea, Hyde Park, Notting Hill, and Parson’s Green.

I think that’s everyone. Thanks to all the great bloggers who contributed their perfect Saturday. Please feel free to republish this post on your own blog and add your own perfect Saturday…in London, or elsewhere.

5 comments » | Blogging Events

Daring Bakers: Peter Reinhart’s Pizza Dough

October 29th, 2008 — 7:39pm

I’ve been a bad Daring Baker. I missed the last few challenges, once deliberately (I thought I might have a nervous breakdown if I attempted yet another layered cake after the Opera) and then the next couple of months I just ran out of time, plain and simple. Chris was less than impressed when he didn’t get those chocolate eclairs I can tell you. Anyway, this month, I am offically back with a vengeance, chomping at the bit to try a new recipe for one of the best foods in the world, pizza.

The difference with this dough is the cold fermentation process, which I hadn’t even realised existed, let alone tried. You make the dough, then whack it in the fridge and finish the process the next day. We were asked to try ‘spinning’ the pizza, which I honestly tried to do but failed miserably. That shiznit is hard. If you want to see something truly impressive, check these guys out. Chris took a picture of me attempting to spin the dough, but I am basically a blurry patch in the middle of an incredibly messy (and perfectly in-focus) flat, so you don’t get that one I’m afraid.

I made pizzas with three different toppings and I wanted to get away from the same old flavours. First up, the anchovy and broccoli with rosemary, chilli and lemon infused oil. I basically wanted to re-create my all time favourite pasta dish, on a pizza. The base is slathered with a roasted garlic tomato sauce, dolloped with the odd blob of mozz and then strewn with blanched broccoli florets and salty anchovy fillets before drizzling with the spicy dressing. This is now one of my favourite pizza toppings, end of. it was really delicious – punchy, unapologetic and really rather pretty. That base is mighty fine too, crispy and thin but yet cloud like inside, almost like really thin ciabbatta.

Pizza purists, avert your eyes. I now bring you a pizza that will traumatise your sensitive souls. We couldn’t stop laughing at the idea of making an English breakfast pizza….. On that slab of crust right there you see bacon, mushrooms, onions (ok, so not usually in a brekkie), tiny cubes of black pudding (yes, really – we are sick) and an egg, plonked right on top (you can see below I overcooked it, damn). And we did eat it for breakfast. I kid you not. I even had brown sauce with mine. Please don’t stop talking to me.

I wanted our third and final pizza to be autumnal and decided to try out some roasted butternut squash as I thought the sweetness might work well, which it did. I used some caramelised onions for yet more gooey sweetness and then some extra rosemary-chilli-lemon oil to cut through and give it some bite. On the whole, it was delicious. I did experiment however, with using labneh (with onion seeds) in place of the cheese, which wasn’t entirely successful. It turns out the labneh flavour wasn’t quite tangy enough to hold up on this pizza. It was good, don’t get me wrong, it just wasn’t good enough.

Apart from the fact I managed to slightly burn every, single, pizza (I got distracted) – I loved the base recipe, although I’m not sure whether I loved it enough to stop looking for ‘the ultimate’. I totally conquered that pizza sauce though and some of those toppings were keepers, although perhaps not the English breakfast. Well, not very often…

So am I forgiven for being a Daring Slacker? I hope so because I still don’t regret my decision to join the club, I just hope it’s not another layered cake next month…

Edit: I forgot to mention that the host was Rosa of Rosa’s Yummy Yums.

~ BASIC PIZZA DOUGH ~
Original recipe taken from “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice” by Peter Reinhart.

Makes 6 pizza crusts (about 9-12 inches/23-30 cm in diameter).

Ingredients:
4 1/2 Cups (20 1/4 ounces/607.5 g) Unbleached high-gluten (%14) bread flour or all purpose flour, chilled – FOR GF: 4 ½ cups GF Flour Blend with xanthan gum or 1 cup brown rice flour, 1 cup corn flour, 1 cup oat flour, 1 ½ cup arrowroot, potato or tapioca starch + 2 tsp xanthan or guar gum
1 3/4 Tsp Salt
1 Tsp Instant yeast – FOR GF use 2 tsp
1/4 Cup (2 ounces/60g) Olive oil or vegetable oil (both optional, but it’s better with)
1 3/4 Cups (14 ounces/420g or 420ml) Water, ice cold (40° F/4.5° C)
1 Tb sugar – FOR GF use agave syrup
Semolina/durum flour or cornmeal for dusting

DAY ONE

Method:
1. Mix together the flour, salt and instant yeast in a big bowl (or in the bowl of your stand mixer).
2. Add the oil, sugar and cold water and mix well (with the help of a large wooden spoon or with the paddle attachment, on low speed) in order to form a sticky ball of dough. On a clean surface, knead for about 5-7 minutes, until the dough is smooth and the ingredients are homogeneously distributed. If it is too wet, add a little flour (not too much, though) and if it is too dry add 1 or 2 teaspoons extra water.

NOTE: If you are using an electric mixer, switch to the dough hook and mix on medium speed for the same amount of time.The dough should clear the sides of the bowl but stick to the bottom of the bowl. If the dough is too wet, sprinkle in a little more flour, so that it clears the sides. If, on the contrary, it clears the bottom of the bowl, dribble in a teaspoon or two of cold water.
The finished dough should be springy, elastic, and sticky, not just tacky, and register 50°-55° F/10°-13° C.

Or

2.  FOR GF: Add the oil, sugar or agave syrup and cold water, then mix well (with the help of a large wooden spoon or with the paddle attachment, on low speed) in order to form a sticky ball of dough.
3. Flour a work surface or counter.  Line a jelly pan with baking paper/parchment. Lightly oil the paper.
4. With the help of a metal or plastic dough scraper, cut the dough into 6 equal pieces (or larger if you want to make larger pizzas).

NOTE: To avoid the dough from sticking to the scraper, dip the scraper into water between cuts.

5. Sprinkle some flour over the dough. Make sure your hands are dry and then flour them.  Gently round each piece into a ball.

NOTE: If the dough sticks to your hands, then dip your hands into the flour again.

6. Transfer the dough balls to the lined jelly pan and mist them generously with spray oil. Slip the pan into plastic bag or enclose in plastic food wrap.
7. Put the pan into the refrigerator and let the dough rest overnight or for up to thee days.

NOTE: You can store the dough balls in a zippered freezer bag if you want to save some of the dough for any future baking. In that case, pour some oil(a few tablespooons only) in a medium bowl and dip each dough ball into the oil, so that it is completely covered in oil. Then put each ball into a separate bag. Store the bags in the freezer for no longer than 3 months. The day before you plan to make pizza, remember to transfer the dough balls from the freezer to the refrigerator.

DAY TWO

8. On the day you plan to eat pizza, exactly 2 hours before you make it, remove the desired number of dough balls from the refrigerator. Dust the counter with flour and spray lightly with oil. Place the dough balls on a floured surface and sprinkle them with flour. Dust your hands with flour and delicately press the dough into disks about 1/2 inch/1.3 cm thick and 5 inches/12.7 cm in diameter. Sprinkle with flour and mist with oil. Loosely cover the dough rounds with plastic wrap and then allow to rest for 2 hours.

Or

8.  FOR GF:  On the day you plan to eat pizza, exactly 2 hours before you make it, remove the number of desired dough balls from the refrigerator.  Place on a sheet of parchment paper and sprinkle with a gluten free flour. Delicately press the dough into disks about ½ inch/1.3 cm thick and 5 inches/12.7 cm in diameter. Sprinkle the dough with flour, mist it again with spray oil. Lightly cover the dough round with a sheet of parchment paper and allow to rest for 2 hours.
9. At least 45 minutes before making the pizza, place a baking stone on the lower third of the oven.  Preheat the oven as hot as possible (500° F/260° C).

NOTE: If you do not have a baking stone, then use the back of a jelly pan. Do not preheat the pan.

10. Generously sprinkle the back of a jelly pan with semolina/durum flour or cornmeal. Flour your hands (palms, backs and knuckles). Take 1 piece of dough by lifting it with a pastry scraper. Lay the dough across your fists in a very delicate way and carefully stretch it by bouncing it in a circular motion on your hands, and by giving it a little stretch with each bounce. Once the dough has expanded outward, move to a full toss.

Or

10.  FOR GF: Press the dough into the shape you want (about 9-12 inches/23-30 cm in diameter – for a 6 ounces/180g piece of dough).

NOTE:
During the tossing process, if the dough tends to stick to your hands, lay it down on the floured counter and reflour your hands, then continue the tossing and shaping.
In case you would be having trouble tossing the dough or if the dough never wants to expand and always springs back, let it rest for approximately 5-20 minutes in order for the gluten to relax fully,then try again.
You can also resort to using a rolling pin, although it isn’t as effective as the toss method.
11. When the dough has the shape you want (about 9-12 inches/23-30 cm in diameter – for a 6 ounces/180g piece of dough), place it on the back of the jelly pan, making sure there is enough semolina/durum flour or cornmeal to allow it to slide and not stick to the pan.

Or

11.  FOR GF: Lightly top it with sweet or savory toppings of your choice.
12. Lightly top it with sweet or savory toppings of your choice.

Or

12.  FOR GF:  Place the garnished pizza on the parchment paper onto the stone in the oven or bake directly on the jelly pan. Close the door and bake for about 5-8 minutes.

NOTE: Remember that the best pizzas are topped not too generously. No more than 3 or 4 toppings (including sauce and cheese) are sufficient.

13. Slide the garnished pizza onto the stone in the oven or bake directly on the jelly pan. Close the door and bake for abour 5-8 minutes.

Or

13.  FOR GF:  Follow the notes for this step.

NOTE: After 2 minutes baking, take a peek. For an even baking, rotate 180°.

If the top gets done before the bottom, you will need to move the stone or jelly pane to a lower shelf before the next round. On the contrary, if the bottom crisps before the cheese caramelizes, then you will need to raise the stone or jelly.

14. Take the pizza out of the oven and transfer it to a cutting board or your plate. In order to allow the cheese to set a little, wait 3-5 minutes before slicing or serving.

19 comments » | Blogging Events, Bread, Daring Bakers

Foodbuzz 24, 24, 24: The Very Best of British

September 20th, 2008 — 10:23pm

“24 Meals, 24 Hours, 24 Blog Posts.” This is the idea behind the global ‘live-blogging’ event organised by Foodbuzz. The team called for entries from bloggers around the world. The task? to create a unique meal, an ‘ultimate meal’, in fact. Now my ultimate meal changes on an almost daily basis but something I always feel passionate about is the fabulous cooking history we have in this country, which often gets a bit of a bad rep. So, get yourself comfortable with a glass/mug of your favourite tipple and let me tell you a little food story about a few things British.

When I first started this blog, I chose the name Food Stories because I wanted the name to reflect the way that food experiences form such an intimate narrative running throughout my life. The dishes and ingredients we are surrounded by obviously play a part in shaping our tastes and culinary identities and although I enjoy cooking and eating food from cuisines the world over, I think it is important to celebrate the produce that can be found right on my own doorstep.

So why did it take so long for people to realise that the UK has some truly wonderful ingredients on offer? For some reason, people in Britain were not always interested in eating high quality, slow, seasonal food – my how times have changed! Now you have to think about getting up early to race to the farmers market and beat the crowds as eager shoppers crowd around the new season’s asparagus and Jersey Royal potatoes. People are demanding higher standards and are more interested than ever in the provenance of their grub. There is a resurgence of interest in traditional dishes  – check out my British One Hundred for a personal list. I for one can’t get enough of this UK food revolution and I am so happy to be cooking this meal, an opportunity to champion some fantastic ingredients and put a twist on some traditional dishes.

The British summertime has now well and truly drawn to a close and the past couple of weeks have brought a chilly nip in the air. Despite this, today is bright and sunny, which is what I had my fingers, toes and everything else crossed for, as this meal will be eaten al fresco. Throughout the summer, my partner and I have enjoyed so many evenings together on this balcony, lingering over good food and wine, chatting until the sun sets and listening to the sounds of the city in the background. This meal is like a farewell celebration of summer evenings and a nod to the changing seasons, welcoming the new autumn produce.

As I said, this year the weather has already turned cooler and we have experienced more than our usual share of rain. You might not think it, but there have been benefits to this unusual weather and one of those is an extended samphire season. For those of you not familiar, samphire is a succulent, which grows around the British coastline and has the most wonderful flavour of the sea. It is fantastically unique, has a totally addictive crisp texture and is the perfect (and I am not exaggerating when I say perfect), accompaniment to fish. It is delicious when cooked simply with butter but for this meal, I am using it in a warm salad together with spinach, lemon-scented, tangy sorrel and – a really traditional British snack – the humble cockle. Did you know that a cockle is actually capable of jumping? Not just a pretty face.

I have always had a fascination with the (sadly dwindling!) UK seafood stall, where you may also purchase delights such as whelks, mussels and eels. Eels? Yes, really. As many of you know, I am a Londoner but even I can’t really stomach the jellied variety. Prepared differently however, the humble eel can be totally delicious, which is why I am including a piece of smoked eel as the crowning glory to this salad. And so the first course is nearly finished – just a warming through of the leaves, samphire and cockles in butter and a splash of malt vinegar for a British sea side feel. Oh, and a final sprinkling of seaweed salt, because I’m feeling well, a bit flash.

The main event this evening is a dish that has many memories for me – it is a stargazy pie (an updated version – not the traditional pilchards…). My Dad’s side of the family are Cornish and I spent many summer holidays there as a child. I remember quite clearly the moment I found out about the Stargazy pie.  A quick phone call to Dad and he told me the name of the pub (of course it was in a pub) – the Ship Inn at Mousehole. Yes it is a real place but no, it’s not pronounced as it sounds – more like “mowzel” and is renowned for fishing, not mice. The stargazy pie is traditionally baked on Tom Bawcock’s Eve (23rd December), when the residents of Mousehole gather to celebrate the efforts of previous resident Tom Bawcock who reportedly made efforts to relieve the tiny fishing village of famine.

My childhood memories aside, the pie recently came to public attention when Cornish chef Mark Hix revamped it for The Great British Menu using rabbit and crayfish and won through to cook for an Ambassadors dinner at the British Embassy in Paris. The dish not only captured the heart of the British public, but also my partner Chris who demanded we re-created it when we visited his family recently in France. They already had a rabbit and some langoustines when we arrived – it was meant to be. The final pie was stunning (the pic below is pre-baking). I would like to claim the glory but it was Chris’s mum who did the lions share. Just check out the way those langoustines are holding hands.

The pie was that good with langoustines that I wanted to make it again and so came up with an all-fish version, harking back a little more to the original. I used chunks of monkfish for a rather decadent pie (best eaten as an occasional treat, due to concerns over stock levels) and finished with those beautiful pink langoustines. To accompany the pie – what could be more British than mushy peas? I am going to arouse controversy now by saying I actually prefer a lighter mushy pea to the traditional marrowfat version. I like the fresh flavour and bright green colour. To finish the dish, I made a fennel scented version of the famous cockney parsley sauce known as ‘liquor’. The sauce is traditionally served with pie and mash, to form a meal which has been eaten all over London since the 18th century. Pie, mash and eel shops can still be found in London, mainly in the East End, including Manzes which has been going since 1902.

When I started to think about a finish to the meal, I just couldn’t get the idea of a summer pudding out of my head. Traditionally, the pudding is a glorious combination of summer fruits, such as raspberries, redcurrants and strawberries, encased in a layer of white bread (or brioche, if you like that kind of thing – which I do). The pudding is then left to rest (preferably overnight) while the bread absorbs all the wonderful berry juices and stains a dark pink. It essential that you serve the pudding with cream. As I said, it’s no longer summer in Blighty but I still came across some plump raspberries, which are also enjoying the benefits of a rainy summer. I supplemented them with some blackberries and blueberries and served the pudding with clotted cream infused with an elderflower liqueur.The beautiful perfume of the elderflower works really well with the summer pudding and would actually be even better (I think) splashed in with the berries.

By this point the sun is setting behind our flat and is casting the most incredible light across the park in front of us – an orangey-red glow. We muse about the meals we have enjoyed together on the balcony and also the food we have grown there, tomatoes, salad leaves, herbs and (almost) potatoes. I feel proud of the meal I’ve created because many of the ingredients bring back dear memories. The day has been pretty much perfect, shopping at Borough Market this morning for the ingredients (here’s my photo tour) then home to the kitchen for a good few hours of non-stop cooking with a few glasses of good wine. Out to the balcony to enjoy some unexpected but oh so welcome September sunshine, conversation, laughter, wine and of course, some damn fine fare…

Salad of Cockles, Sorrel, Spinach and Samphire with Smoked Eel

Simply warm through a handful each of spinach, samphire (blanched), sorrel and cockles in a little butter, adding a splash of malt vinegar at the end. Heap onto a serving plate and warm through bite size pieces of smoked eel. Sprinkle with seaweed salt.

Stargazy Pie with Monkfish and Langoustine

I adapted the recipe from Mark Hix’s version here. Instead of the rabbit, I added monkfish when the sauce was cooked and replaced the crayfish with langoustine. I also used a litre less stock.

Mushy Peas

Bring a pan of water to the boil and cook two peeled garlic cloves for 10 minutes. Add 3 generous man-handfuls of frozen petit pois and cook for 3-4 minutes, then drain. Return the peas and garlic to the bowl, then add 2 heaped tablespoons chopped mint, a knob of butter, some seasoning and a splash of milk. Pulse with a blender.

Parsley Liquor with Fennel (adapted from this recipe)

I followed the recipe to the letter, although I softened some very finely chopped fennel in the butter at the beginning, before adding the flour. I also added a touch more malt vinegar.

Summer Pudding
I made two puddings in 12 cm moulds. Each pud was enough for 2 people

Take 400g berries (I used raspberries, blueberries and blackberries, which is unusual. Normally red summer berries and currants are used) and add to a pan with 1 tablespoon water and 50g caster sugar. Heat through very gently until the sugar is dissolved and the juices of the berries have started to run. Line the pudding dish first with cling film – leaving a large overhang and then with slices of brioche, taking care to overlap and patch where necessary. You don’t want any juice leaking through. Fill with the berry mix – almost to the top (saving some for sauce) and seal with more brioche. Spoon some of the remaining juice onto the top, seal up with the cling film and put something like and unopened can on top to weigh down. Leave in the fridge overnight.

For the cream, I just mixed a good dash of elderflower liqueur with some clotted cream. To serve, loosen the pudding by pulling gently at the cling film and turn out onto a plate. Spoon some of the remaining juice and fruit on top and round then edge and finish with a dollop of cream.

37 comments » | Blogging Events

Broad Beans, Bacon, Asparagus & Spring Onions with Herb Vinaigrette

June 14th, 2008 — 7:16am

I know, I know, it’s another recipe using asparagus. I was going to save it until next year but I’ve decided that it tastes too damn good for that. This is one of those dishes that has me stuffing my face uncontrollably – only when I finish my second third helping do I realise I am over-full. The broad beans I laid my hands on were perfect and young, so most needed only an initial podding, the outer skins were so soft and edible. I still take some pleasure though, from squeezing the cooked beans from their wrinkled jackets and watching the almost fluorescent green buttons pop through.

This is the kind of salad I like to lay out at a barbecue, it looks so summery and smells so fragrant. I demand that, as you stir the vinaigrette, onions and herbs through the hot beans and bacon, you put your face close to the bowl and take a deep breath, the reward will be a momentary intoxication. Imagine this, the freshness of the beans and asparagus, crispy, salty bacon, punchy spring onions, all glistening and flecked shades of green with herby vinaigrette. You could use just about any mixture of soft herbs for this salad – I used parsley, chives, mint and dill.

 

 

Broad Beans, Bacon, Asparagus & Spring Onions with Herb Vinaigrette

900g broad beans (unpodded weight)
10 asparagus spears
4 rashers smoked bacon or pancetta
4 spring onions, finely shredded
A small handful each of 3 or 4 herbs of your choice. I used dill, parsley, mint and chives – roughly chopped
2 cloves garlic
1 heaped teaspoon wholegrain mustard
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar (or other wine vinegar or lemon juice)
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and black pepper

- Pod the beans and trim the asparagus by bending each spear until it snaps and discarding the woody end (not the tips). Wash thoroughly.
- Simmer the asparagus and beans for 3-5 minutes, depending on size, until just tender (I cooked my asparagus and beans separately).
- Grill the bacon or pancetta until crisp and chop into bite size pieces.
- When the vegetables are ready, remove the tough outer skins from any larger broad beans and add to a serving bowl with the asparagus and bacon/pancetta.
- To make the vinaigrette, crush the garlic in a pestle and mortar with some sea salt. Add the mustard and some black pepper and stir in. Add the vinegar and then the oil, whisking to emulsify.
- Add the onions and herbs to the bowl, pour in the desired amount of vinaigrette (I used the lot) and stir to combine. Serve immediately – although it is also delicious cold.

This is an entry for Joelen’s Blogging Adventure: Salad Spinnin’ hosted by Joelen’s Culinary Adventures.

17 comments » | Blogging Events, Gluten-free, Main Dishes, Meat, Salads, Side Dishes, Starters, Vegetables

Pistachio, Cointreau & Peppermint Opera Cake

May 28th, 2008 — 8:27pm

Phew! This cake, my second challenge as a Daring Baker, was probably the most ‘difficult’ recipe I have ever cooked. My style is not one of fine technical skill or finesse, it is more on the simple, light and fresh side. Don’t get me wrong, I like a bit of chocolate but this is hardcore.

 

So (deep breath), here’s what the Opera Cake consists of – the joconde (a thin cake made with ground nuts), brushed with syrup and followed by a layer of buttercream, then more joconde and syrup, more buttercream, more joconde and syrup, a layer of white chocolate mousse and finally (because that’s just not enough), a white chocolate glaze. A traditional opera cake contains darker chocolate and coffee flavours with an almond joconde, which I would love to try – as long as someone else makes it. For this challenge, we were allowed to substitute flavours, so long as the flavours remained ‘pale’ and the chocolate white. I made a pistachio joconde, a peppermint syrup, vanilla and orange zest buttercream and white chocolate and Cointreau mousse.

Here’s how I went wrong. The joconde, for some reason (I don’t know), refused to cook properly in the centre. I used the right size pans, the right oven temperature, the right method but it just started burning on top and stayed ultra-gooey in the centre. It was either my oven – very likely – or it was the type of nuts I used. Either way, I ended up removing the cakes from the tin, turning them over and re-baking them until they firmed up dammit! Eventually, it worked but that put me back about an hour what with all the deliberation over how to ‘sort it’, and I spent five or so hours making the entire cake. Next problem was the buttercream. I managed to make this the night before and everything was fine. When I came to re-beat it for use on the cake however, it had split. I read on the forum that, if this happens, the solution is to beat it and just keep going until you think the motor will blow on your mixer – eventually it will come back to a luscious buttercream and miraculously, it did!

Dramas over, the other components were pretty simple but I must admit, the whole thing was way too sweet for me. You need an occasion for a cake like this, a small slice is definitely enough. That said, Chris loved it – but it beat him in the end and I’m ashamed to say that some did get wasted. Although I didn’t really like the cake, I’m still very glad that I joined the Daring Bakers. I’m making things I would never have considered before and having mini cooking adventures. I love the fact that there are hundreds of people around the world all attempting this cake for the same reason. I’m just not sure how many of them will be attempting it again, probably those that are a lot more competent than I am….

Pistachio, Cointreau and Peppermint Opera Cake

For the joconde

(Note: The joconde can be made up to 1 day in advance and kept wrapped at room temperate)

What you’ll need:

2 12½ x 15½-inch (31 x 39-cm) jelly-roll pans (Note: If you do not have jelly-roll pans this size, do not fear! You can use different-sized jelly-roll pans like 10 x 15-inches.)
a few tablespoons of melted butter (in addition to what’s called for in the ingredients’ list) and a brush (to grease the pans)
parchment paper
a whisk and a paddle attachment for a stand mixer or for a handheld mixer
two mixing bowls (you can make do with one but it’s preferable to have two)

Ingredients:

6 large egg whites, at room temperature
2 tbsp. (30 grams) granulated sugar
2 cups (225 grams) ground blanched pistachios
2 cups icing sugar, sifted
6 large eggs
½ cup (70 grams) all-purpose flour
3 tbsp. (1½ ounces; 45 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1.Divide the oven into thirds by positioning a rack in the upper third of the oven and the lower third of the oven.
2.Preheat the oven to 425F. (220C).
3.Line two 12½ x 15½- inch (31 x 39-cm) jelly-roll pans with parchment paper and brush with melted butter.
4.In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or using a handheld mixer), beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add the granulated sugar and beat until the peaks are stiff and glossy. If you do not have another mixer bowl, gently scrape the meringue into another bowl and set aside.
5.If you only have one bowl, wash it after removing the egg whites or if you have a second bowl, use that one. Attach the paddle attachment to the stand mixer (or using a handheld mixer again) and beat the pistachios, icing sugar and eggs on medium speed until light and voluminous, about 3 minutes.
6.Add the flour and beat on low speed until the flour is just combined (be very careful not to overmix here!!!).
7.Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the meringue into the pistachio mixture and then fold in the melted butter. Divide the batter between the pans and spread it evenly to cover the entire surface of each pan.
8.Bake the cake layers until they are lightly browned and just springy to the touch. This could take anywhere from 5 to 9 minutes depending on your oven. Place one jelly-roll pan in the middle of the oven and the second jelly-roll pan in the bottom third of the oven.
9.Put the pans on a heatproof counter and run a sharp knife along the edges of the cake to loosen it from the pan. Cover each with a sheet of parchment or wax paper, turn the pans over, and unmold.
10.Carefully peel away the parchment, then turn the parchment over and use it to cover the cakes. Let the cakes cool to room temperature.

For the syrup

(Note: The syrup can be made up to 1 week in advance and kept covered in the refrigerator.)

What you’ll need:

a small saucepan

Ingredients:

½ cup (125 grams) water
65 grams granulated sugar
2ml peppermint extract

1.Stir all the syrup ingredients together in the saucepan and bring to a boil.
2.Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

For the buttercream

(Note: The buttercream can be made up to 1 month in advance and packed in an airtight container. If made way in advance, you can freeze the buttercream. Alternatively you can refrigerate it for up to 4 days after making it. To use the buttercream simply bring it to room temperature and then beat it briefly to restore its consistency.)

What you’ll need:

a small saucepan
a candy or instant-read thermometer
a stand mixer or hand held mixer
a bowl and a whisk attachment
rubber spatula

Ingredients:

1 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
¼ cup (60 grams) water
seeds of one vanilla bean (split a vanilla bean down the middle and scrape out the seeds) or 1 tbsp. pure vanilla extract
zest of 2 oranges
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1¾ sticks (7 ounces; 200 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons Cointreau

1.Combine the sugar, water and vanilla bean seeds or extract in a small saucepan and warm over medium heat just until the sugar dissolves.
2.Continue to cook, without stirring, until the syrup reaches 225F (107C) [*Note: Original recipe indicates a temperature of 255F (124C), however, when testing the recipe I found that this was too high so we heated to 225F and it worked fine] on a candy or instant-read thermometer. Once it reaches that temperature, remove the syrup from the heat.
3.While the syrup is heating, begin whisking the egg and egg yolk at high speed in the bowl of your mixer using the whisk attachment. Whisk them until they are pale and foamy.
4.When the sugar syrup reaches the correct temperature and you remove it from the heat, reduce the mixer speed to low speed and begin slowly (very slowly) pouring the syrup down the side of the bowl being very careful not to splatter the syrup into the path of the whisk attachment. Some of the syrup will spin onto the sides of the bowl but don’t worry about this and don’t try to stir it into the mixture as it will harden!
5.Raise the speed to medium-high and continue beating until the eggs are thick and satiny and the mixture is cool to the touch (about 5 minutes or so).
6.While the egg mixture is beating, place the softened butter in a bowl and mash it with a spatula until you have a soft creamy mass.
7.With the mixer on medium speed, begin adding in two-tablespoon chunks. When all the butter has been incorporated, raise the mixer speed to high and beat until the buttercream is thick and shiny.
8.At this point add the orange zest and beat for an additional minute or so.
9.Refrigerate the buttercream, stirring it often, until it’s set enough (firm enough) to spread when topped with a layer of cake (about 20 minutes).

For the white chocolate ganache/mousse (this step is optional – please see Elements of an Opéra Cake below)

(Note: The mousse can be made ahead and refrigerated until you’re ready to use it.)

What you’ll need:

a small saucepan
a mixer or handheld mixer

Ingredients:

7 ounces white chocolate
1 cup plus 3 tbsp. heavy cream (35% cream)
1 tbsp. Cointreau

1.Melt the white chocolate and the 3 tbsp. of heavy cream in a small saucepan.
2.Stir to ensure that it’s smooth and that the chocolate is melted. Add the tablespoon of liqueur to the chocolate and stir. Set aside to cool completely.
3.In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the remaining 1 cup of heavy cream until soft peaks form.
4.Gently fold the whipped cream into the cooled chocolate to form a mousse.
5.If it’s too thin, refrigerate it for a bit until it’s spreadable.
6.If you’re not going to use it right away, refrigerate until you’re ready to use.

For the glaze
(Note: It’s best to make the glaze right when you’re ready to finish the cake.)

What you’ll need:

a small saucepan or double boiler

Ingredients:

14 ounces white chocolate, coarsely chopped
½ cup heavy cream (35% cream)

1.Melt the white chocolate with the heavy cream. Whisk the mixture gently until smooth.
2.Let cool for 10 minutes and then pour over the chilled cake. Using a long metal cake spatula, smooth out into an even layer.
3.Place the cake into the refrigerator for 30 minutes to set.

Assembling the Opéra Cake

(Note: The finished cake should be served slightly chilled. It can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 day).

Line a baking sheet with parchment or wax paper.

Working with one sheet of cake at a time, cut and trim each sheet so that you have two pieces (from each cake so you’ll have four pieces in total): one 10-inch (25-cm) square and one 10 x 5-inch (25 x 12½-cm) rectangle.

Place one square of cake on the baking sheet and moisten it gently with the flavoured syrup.

Spread about three-quarters of the buttercream over this layer.

Top with the two rectangular pieces of cake, placing them side by side to form a square. Moisten these pieces with the flavoured syrup.

Spread the remaining buttercream on the cake and then top with the third square of joconde. Use the remaining syrup to wet the joconde and then refrigerate until very firm (at least half an hour).

Prepare the ganache/mousse (if you haven’t already) and then spread it on the top of the last layer of the joconde. Refrigerate for at least two to three hours to give the ganache/mousse the opportunity to firm up.

Make the glaze and after it has cooled, pour/spread it over the top of the chilled cake. Refrigerate the cake again to set the glaze.

Serve the cake slightly chilled. This recipe will yield approximately 20 servings.

This month’s Daring Bakers challenge was hosted by Lis of La Mia Cucina and Ivonne of Cream Puffs in Venice

48 comments » | Blogging Events, Cakes, Daring Bakers, Desserts

Jewelled Farro Salad with Almonds and Orange-Raspberry Vinegar Dressing

May 15th, 2008 — 1:08pm

This is probably the best salad I have ever made. It’s so fruity, so crunchy, sweet, salty, soft and fragrant all at the same time that I’ve ditched any thoughts of modesty and am just going to shout it out there. Here’s how it happened. I was honoured to win the first ever Cookthink Root Source challenge way back in January with my recipe for Celeriac Soup with Parsley Oil and Lancashire Cheese Toasts. Just thinking about that recipe takes me right back to winter which is apparently where we are headed this weekend in the UK (again). As a prize for winning the challenge, I have received a cook book (and a Cookthink T-shirt!) called Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes: Recipes from a Modern Kitchen Garden by Jeanne Kelley.

The book focuses on simple, fresh flavours. The recipes certainly aren’t challenging but are more akin to the way we like to eat everyday, uncomplicated and delicious, celebrating seasonal ingredients. I wanted to feature a recipe from the book and was drawn to these ‘Salty-Sweet-Spicy Almonds’ but, as per usual, I couldn’t just make a recipe and leave it alone, the reading of the recipe started my mind wandering in different directions which is the last thing I need right now with exams looming (any information in might squeeze information out, ok?). I wanted to incorporate the almonds into a dish rather than eating them as a cocktail snack as Jeanne suggests. So, while the sun persists, so do I with this jewel flecked farro salad. This is perfect for a barbecue side dish and most definitely for the lunchbox, which is partly what I had in mind. Salads like these keep well for a few days in the fridge and are bursting with contrasting flavours meaning your tastbuds don’t get tired.

I’ve realised that it is the contrasts in textures and flavours that are the making of a good dish. A perfect illustation of this was bestowed upon myself and Chris last night when we ate dinner at The Bermondsey Kitchen. We had both heard good things about it and so finally decided to visit. The place itself is informal, bright and airy and the service excellent. Overall, the food was good, not amazing or anything, but good. I had a charcuterie plate to start which I was relieved to find was not a towering pile of meat (sure to clog up your tubes and appetite in the space of 10 minutes) and included lomo, a Spanish cured pork fillet I’ve never eaten before but will now be searching out – somthing tells me Brindisa will have it! Chris ordered rilletes (no surprise to me nor to his family if they read this). They were excellent, really quite coarse in texture (pork) with big flavour. My main dish was delicious, plaice with blood orange butter and baby fennel. That blood orange butter was genius although I was sceptical about the seasonality issue with the oranges until Chris pointed out that the odd few still keep turning up in the veg box. “The seasons aren’t set in stone!”

The big disappointment was Chris’s main, roast pork belly with mashed potato and courgettes. The portion was massive which I feel is absolutely not the way to go with pork belly. The best belly we ever ate was in Franklin’s, our favourite local restaurant, perfectly crispy and just the right size. The Bermondsey version was vulgar and the fat was, well, not that crispy. The mashed potato was bland and so were the courgettes, he didn’t even eat more than half. The point I’ve been rambling towards all this time is that the dish didn’t contain any contrasts. These are all middle of the road flavours, there is nothing dancing around your mouth, cutting through, playing off, enhancing. Some herbs, citrus, hell anything would have improved things, it was like it came from a different chef.

Anyway, back to the salad.There is a lot of confusion over the whole spelt/farro issue – are they the same or aren’t they? Kalyn wrote about this recently and concluded that they are not. I commented on Kalyn’s post saying that a spelt seller at The Real Food Festival had told me they are one and the same but apparently this is a common misconception. I am going with Kalyn on this one as I know she’s done the research. Whatever it is, I dressed it with an orange and raspberry vinegar dressing that is so fruity it just lifts the whole dish and brings all the flavours to life. It is one of my best dressings ever. The nuts work brilliantly too, I’m so glad I tried them this way. They are fragrant with fennel seeds and hot with crushed chillies. The sticky sugar coating gives them a fantastic crunch. Tangy feta, sweet almonds, salty olives, fruity dressing. Cookthink – in sending me the book, you set me on the path to this salad and for that, I thank you deeply.

Jewelled Farro Salad with Almonds and Orange-Raspberry Vinegar Dressing

250g farro
6 spring onions, sliced
40g dried cranberries, soaked in water for 30-60 minutes
10-15 kalamata olives, sliced in half
2 pomegranates, seeds removed (make sure there is no pith)
200g feta cheese
1 small bunch mint, leaves picked and finely sliced
1 small bunch flat leaf parsley, leaves picked and left whole
15-20 almonds (see below)
1 quantity orange-raspberry vinegar dressing (below)

- Cook the farro according to packet instructions, drain and set aside to cool.
- Make the almonds and dressing (below).
- In a large bowl, mix the farro, onions, cranberries, pomegranate seeds and crumble in most of the feta.
- Add the almonds and the dressing and stir to combine. Add the herbs and mix again.
- Transfer to a serving plate and crumble over the remaining feta to serve.

Salty-Sweet-Spicy Almonds (from Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes by Jeanne Kelley)
This is the full recipe. I only used about 15-20 almonds in the salad

1/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
2 cups raw almonds

Preheat the oven to 325F (170C/Gas3)
Line a baking sheet with foil and spray with non-stick cooking spray (I just wiped a film of oil over it)

- Mix sugar, fennel seeds, salt and red pepper flakes in a bowl. Add the almonds and 2 tablespoons water and stir to coat everything. Pour onto the foil and spread out in one layer.
- Bake until the sugar melts (about 5 minutes), then stir and return to the oven for 17 minutes more, stirring every now and again until golden brown.
- Remove from oven and separate with a fork. Leave to cool.

Orange-Raspberry Vinegar Dressing

Juice of one orange
1 tablespoon raspberry vinegar
1/2 to 1 clove garlic (depending on taste)
Salt and pepper
Extra virgin olive oil

- Crush the garlic in a pestle and mortar with the salt.
- Add some black pepper, the orange juice and vinegar and mix well.
- Add a couple of tablespoons olive oil (or to taste) and whisk to emulsify.

Edit: This is an entry for Margot’s Wholesome Lunchbox Event over at Coffee and Vanilla

22 comments » | Barbecue, Blogging Events, Books, Fruit, Grains, Healthy, Lunchbox, Restaurant Reviews, Salads, Side Dishes, Vegetables

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