Yipin China, Islington
Two visits to Islington within a week; another part of my South London street cred ebbing away every time my tentative steps took me aboard the sweaty Northern line, during rush hour. Teeth were gritted, knuckles turned white and the urge to punch other people was just about suppressed. Thankfully Yipin was worth the trauma. The number of Chinese restaurants serving decent, varied, regional food is ever growing. The menu at Yipin is divided into Hunan, Sichuan and Cantonese sections and it’s huge; I mean in terms of physical measurements, not number of dishes. Everything has an accompanying photograph of the kind that fall in the right place between splattered laminated takeaway menu and glossy PR shot; the kind that are genuinely helpful and importantly, make you want to actually eat the food.
First was ‘spiced fungus’, which was jelly fungus, slipping about in a mixture of sesame oil, red and green chilli and plenty of Chinkiang (black) vinegar, something I’ve not noticed so much when I’ve eaten the dish at other restaurants (Snazz Sichuan for example). It’s a cold dish, and the fungus has a seaweed-like texture, borderline crunchy, ‘like something that should be worn’ said my mate, ‘pieces of macintosh’ said another. Those were compliments, believe it or not. Easily my favourite dish of the evening.
Sichuan mixed pickles were not particularly pickled, but pleasantly soothing every so often when the sweats started kicking in. Hand torn cabbage was markedly different to the version at Silk Road, one of my favourite restaurant dishes of all time; notable variations included slivers of pork belly (never a bad thing), lots of fresh chilli rather than dried and considerably less sugar. A very successful dish but one with a lot to live up to.
Best of the meaty dishes was pork belly with preserved vegetable; neatly arranged slices of soft belly with cm thick stripes of fat. I love the way the Chinese celebrate the softness of a piece of simmered pork like this; bubbly crackling is obviously great, but it’s not the only way to celebrate the fatty underbelly. The sauce was funky with preserved vegetable, very much like the Tianjin preserved vegetable I became hopelessly addicted to at one stage; a unique, intense, cabbagey flavour. A second meaty main, deep fried beef with cumin didn’t seem at all deep fried but was incredibly tender. Despite a heady whack of cumin, it still managed to underwhelm. Again, I’ve been spoilt by the similarly flavoured lamb skewers with cumin at Silk Road and I wish I’d tried the Yipin version.
Dan dan noodles were a little underpowered compared to the Fuschia Dunlop recipe, which I regularly make at home (mine is the second photo). The meat is always presented on top and then the whole lot stirred together at the table. More preserved vegetable and a little numbing Sichuan pepper would have improved things. Still, nice enough, if more appropriate as a lunch dish.
Rice with salted chillies was disappointing, tasting pretty much just like standard egg fried rice, and tofu with salted duck egg had the odds stacked against it, coming as it did at the end of the meal. The slippery texture of the very soft tofu so beloved by the Chinese would have been welcome 20 minutes earlier but was challenging at that stage of the game, particularly in an eggy, gelatinous sauce.
Despite minor grumbles I very much enjoyed Yipin. The room is typically utilitarian, initially lacking in atmosphere but improving as it filled up with customers, the windows getting progressively steamier. We paid £21 each with a few beers, which is cheap by most restaurant standards of course, but more expensive than other similar restaurants, where I’ve struggled to spend more than £15. This is Islington however, not Camberwell (Silk Road) or King’s Cross (Chilli Cool). I’d like to have tried Yipin’s fish fragrant aubergine as a benchmark and also anything with preserved egg, plus the pickled green beans with minced pork which I adored at Shu Castle on the Old Kent Road.
Overall a little more flavour intensity would be appreciated but I think they’ve done a lovely job of making the food more accessible in general, the photos on the menu for example and the sensitive translations which see dishes like the well known ‘saliva chicken’ translated as the more appetising ‘mouth watering chicken’. I’ve been spoiled by my proximity to places in the South East, but if I ever find myself in the area? I’d definitely go back.
Yipin China
70-72 Liverpool Road
London
N1 0QD
Tel: 020 7354 3388
Thanks to Donald for the photos.
Category: Hunan food, Restaurant Reviews, Sichuan | Tags: Chinese food Islington, Hunan food Islington, Sichuan food Islington, Yipin China Islington, Yipin China review, Yipin Islington review 19 comments »
October 4th, 2012 at 12:43 pm
WAH I am so sad I missed this. But hey. When can we go back to Shu Castle hmmm?
October 4th, 2012 at 12:43 pm
“Two visits to Islington within a week”? you poor soul! It sounds good, but I’m not sure I dare venture that far north for a fix, not with Wuli Wuli and Silk Road on the doorstep!
Rich
October 4th, 2012 at 12:44 pm
I REALLY want to go back to Shu Castle and at those prices, we can go any time!
October 4th, 2012 at 12:44 pm
Well, quite. Wuli Wuli has toned down considerably, which is a shame.
October 4th, 2012 at 3:24 pm
given I live in north london this excites me more than you know… pretty much got my order memorised already!
October 4th, 2012 at 3:25 pm
Wicked! A little more handy for you…
October 4th, 2012 at 3:38 pm
mmm…just posted on chowhound asking if anyone would help out a poor vegetarian with a good chinese place? Not sure about here, but looking at chilli cool from your link, that place looks pretty OK..?
October 4th, 2012 at 3:40 pm
Many Sichuan dishes can be ordered with or without meat – meaning with or without minced pork. Fish fragrant aubergines (doesn’t actually have fish) and dry fried green beans are good examples of this, as if ma po tofu. Go! See what happens.
October 4th, 2012 at 3:54 pm
adam and theresa – there’s a veggie chinese place on holloway road…
http://archway.lovinghut.co.uk/
October 4th, 2012 at 4:10 pm
I’m local and usually very loyal to Wuli Wuli and Silk Road. But in December when we get the Overground, there’ll be a direct train from Denmark Hill and Peckham Rye to Islington, which will make the journey to North London less of a chore. Sounds like it will be worth the trip.
I am worried, however, that the Overground will mean that all the lovely, cheap places in Camberwell and Peckham will be overrun with north londoners.
October 4th, 2012 at 4:11 pm
Arghgghgghh keep them out keep them OUT!
Tee hee. Only kidding, obviously. Ahem. I am excited about the ELL too but distraught at the idea of losing the overland connection to Victoria.
October 4th, 2012 at 4:14 pm
Hilarious; walking past this place on the way to the quiz the other night I *knew* one of you would go here! Must be my sixth sense…
October 4th, 2012 at 4:16 pm
Honestly Hugh, your talents are endless!!
October 10th, 2012 at 1:00 pm
When I’m in London, I usually visit Angel for a night out. I’ll check this place out now. Thanks.
October 10th, 2012 at 1:01 pm
Wicked, I hope you like it.
October 12th, 2012 at 12:56 pm
much as i love crackling too, I must say I have a special thing for pork belly when braised until it’s meltingly soft and tender. grew up enjoyign mum’s pork belly braised liek that, then sandwiched in between white buns and lettuce, or just over rice with lots of braising sauce drizzled over. yum. will be sure to check yipin out one day, though I have yet to even make it to shu castle despite living so near, shame!, nor chilli cool (near my school!)
October 12th, 2012 at 4:18 pm
Oooh I would check out Shu Castle first; I loved it there!
October 14th, 2012 at 5:51 pm
Lovely pictures; I need to check out this Shu Castle place!
October 15th, 2012 at 7:18 am
This place is fantastic, the menu was amazing and food was absolutely gorg!!!, it is so different to the mediocre Chinese restaurants we have been to.
The staff were very nice and friendly, very efficient.
Definitely going back soon to go through the menus and recommend to people who want to try something different