Archive for July 2012


Rum & Raisin Ice Cream with Banana Bread Chunks

July 25th, 2012 — 8:02am

The old school ice cream flavours are the best. Mint choc chip, raspberry ripple, tutti frutti. I have a particularly soft spot for rum and raisin though, probably because it contains BOOZE. Flavours like R & R are rarely seen in the shops nowadays, bullied off the shelves by the likes of that total whorebag ‘chocolate fudge brownie’ and tacky slapper ‘cherry garcia’.

I had to make some proper rum and raisin at home and I had to make it gooood. I started by looking into rum. Spiced rum. I’ve never really been much of a rum drinker to be honest so I asked around and Kraken seemed popular with those in the know. The bottle is also pretty damn cool…

So it tastes like er, spiced rum; cloves, allspice, bit of cinnamon. It also has quite a strong caramel flavour which I find rather unpleasant to drink but which works well in ice cream. I thought I’d added too much in the first batch but actually the flavour rounded out after a couple of days and I decided to stick with it. I wanted as much rum in the mix as possible, basically. What I did do the first time however was add too many raisins. I told my friend about this and he just tutted loudly and said ‘huh, classic mistake’ in a disdainful manner. He was right of course, which is what made it so annoying.

Anyway, I made another batch and it kicked ass so, HA. What really makes this ice cream the shiz however is the banana bread chunks. I was gifted a piece of banana bread by my mates who were basically trying to offload all the food in their cupboard before going on holiday. On a whim I broke it up, chucked it in the ice cream maker and churned it very briefly in the hope it would somewhat resemble cookie dough in texture, rather than disintegrate into a thousand bits of grit. As it turned out my recklessness (I really know how to live) was rewarded with lovely gooey squidgy pieces.

I’ve been knocking back bowls of this but I’ve still got loads left and I’m wondering what to do with it. Ice cream sandwiches with wafers are definitely on the cards and I spent a good half an hour on the 185 to Catford contemplating the idea of wrapping banana bread around the outside to make a kind of pimped arctic roll. I want to spend my days playing around with custard, booze and fruit, basically. I think that’s an entirely reasonable use of my time.

Rum and Raisin Ice Cream with Banana Bread Chunks

150ml Kraken spiced black rum
75g raisins
8 egg yolks (yep)
200g caster sugar
400ml full fat milk
400ml double cream
1 piece orange peel
150g banana bread
A pinch of salt

Put the raisins in a small pan with the rum and warm them through gently. Set them aside in a bowl to let them get on with plumping up.

Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar. In a saucepan bring the milk, salt and orange peel almost to the boil. Don’t let it actually boil. Pour this on to the egg yolks, whisking really well at the same time.

Return this mixture to the heat. Add the cream, rum and the raisins. Cook this over a low heat, stirring gently and scraping the bottom of the pan. Keep the heat low and remain patient until the custard begins to thicken. It is ready when the custard coats the back of a spoon. This happens at 80C. With hindsight, it might be easier to separate the rum and raisins and add the raisins towards the end of churning, particularly if you are not familiar with making custard as the raisins make it harder to judge when it is starting to thicken.

Set the custard aside in a bowl and cover it to stop a skin forming. Let this cool completely then ideally refrigerate for a few hours or overnight. Discard the orange zest.

Churn in an ice cream maker. Towards the end of churning, add the banana bread chunks, mix very briefly, then freeze.

30 comments » | Desserts, Ice Cream

‘Peckham Tapas’

July 12th, 2012 — 8:18am

Your eyes do not deceive you. You did just see the words ‘Peckham’ and ‘tapas’ next to each other. The Rye pub has reopened in SE15 and with it comes a menu boasting the above. Peckham. Tapas. Let’s take a moment to unpack that, shall we?

(deep breath)

So you know that Spanish thing, tapas? That thing the Spanish bars do where they serve small snacks to nibble on while you have a drink, in Spain? Yeah well let’s take that concept, but make it all Peckham, like. A plantain here, a jerked chicken there, a scotch bonnet bleedin’ everywhere.

The idea of using locally available ingredients with the aim of creating a menu that really represents for Peckham (innit blud *finger whip*) is a nice one. The intentions behind the er, concept (wince) were probably good, which makes it all the more tragic that the food itself is beyond shit.

Bad things happened before the food even arrived, actually, like when the waitress brought condiments to our table – ketchup, mustard and – CURVEBALL – a shot glass of mayonnaise. Okay fine, serve your mayo any way you like but do not serve a shot glass of mayo which is sporting a crust. The thing had clearly been dutifully presented at many tables that day and probably many tables a couple of days previously; truly rank. It looked like bog standard shop bought mayo so I’ve no idea why it got this special shot glass treatment while the ketchup etc. did not. Here’s a tip though guys: bottles keep stuff fresh.

So from the tapas menu (shudder) we order onion bhajis with, wait for it…date and plantain relish. We also order salt fish fritters with, wait for it…smoked garlic aioli.

(deep breath)

So, onion bhajis, those famous Indian snacks and plantains those er, plantains. Interesting. I’m thinking, this sounds like a right car crash but let’s hold back on the judgement until I’ve tasted them. Benefit of the doubt and all that. I’ll tell you how that worked out in a moment. First, you must look at them. I demand it. Go on, have a good look…

Look like they’ve been varnished, no? That’s one thick mother funking mahogany skin on those bhajis, let me tell you. It had the texture of fruit leather. I think they may have been deep fried at some point, that point being several days before they were reheated and served. We decided to push on with having a taste, my companion and I, despite their alarming appearance giving rise to a nagging expectation that a tiny alien may burst out of each one at any moment. We rip through the skin to find that, despite having the appearance of things which have seen the fires of Hades, they’re not cooked in the middle. Wicked. Let’s try the plantain chutney then…a whack of vinegar first, then a piece of plantain. That isn’t cooked either. Ace.

Moving on. The salt fish fritters come with smoked garlic aioli, or, more accurately, shop bought mayo with some smoked garlic mixed into it. That’s not aioli and also, why? Salt fish and mayonnaise is a horrible combination, but it does have the advantage of distracting us somewhat from the bizarre, gluey texture of the fritters. Jamaican style salt fish fritters with French aioli. A pile of rocket on the side. There’s a reason no-one else is doing this.

Our ‘jerk chicken burger with avocado salsa’ does not come from the Peckham tapas menu but instead ‘from the stove’ which is of course where all good jerk comes from. What do you mean nothing has come from the stove since 1901? You cynical old sod, you.

Now at this point I move from finding the meal hilarious to feeling deeply sad and mentally scarred. In case you hadn’t noticed, I’m rather a fan of jerk. This wasn’t jerk. This was a piece of chicken rubbed with ready made jerk seasoning (and not much of it), cooked until perfectly dry and shoved in a bun with the saddest blob of salsa ever dolloped with no care or attention. Behold the most tragic food photo ever taken…

I take no responsibility for your mental health post viewing. In fact I’m sorry for inflicting this upon you at all but you must understand that I need to get some closure.

This menu should be used as an example every time someone wants to know the definition of ‘style over substance’. Everything comes on wooden boards, by the way. Plates would be too straightforward and anyway, they clash with the shot glasses. I’m going to stop now. I’m going to stop because I’m having flash backs but mostly because I want to go and get a beer from the fridge. This has been remarkably cathartic but now all I’m left with is the memory of last summer, when The Rye was serving Meatwagon burgers, buffalo wings and pigs cooked in a pit in the back garden. Two minutes walk from my house. Gutted.

I should add that The Rye did apologise and they invited me back for drinks ‘on the house’. They also say they are working on improving the food. 

The Rye
31 Peckham Rye
SE15 3NX

59 comments » | Food From The Rye, Peckham, Pubs, Restaurant Reviews

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