Eating in Iceland 1: Restaurants
The country, people. Not the frozen foods supermarket. Firstly, dodgy photo alert! If your sensitive little eyes are easily offended by shockingly bad photography then look away when you get half way through this post. In my defence, I didn’t take my good camera, was for some reason focus-challenged throughout and I fully admit to being worse for wear (read: drunken), for a good part of the holiday these meals.
Secondly, I just need to gush about Iceland before we begin. Quite simply, it is breathtaking. I have never visited a country where I’ve seen volcanoes, stunning blue mineral filled waters, glaciers, mountains, geysers, springs and lush greenery all at the same time. Everywhere you look there is a truly amazing landscape. Just go.
So, I expect you are here to learn about the food then? We only visited for four days but we did get a fair amount of eating and drinking done in that time. Of course, it was all about the fish. Icelanders have to make do with what they can glean from the surrounding environment as all other foods must be imported like everything else, which is why the place is so damn expensive. They have fish aplenty though and prize their mountain lamb and skyr (an Icelandic yoghurt), and very good it all is too.
I thought I would begin by showing you what we ate in the restaurants we visited before moving on to the more impromptu stuff in my next post. Our first meal was actually in our hotel restaurant (Panorama Restaurant at Hotel Arnarhvoll, Ingolfsstraeti 1, IS-101 Reykjavík, Tel.: (+354) 595 8540), overlooking the Atlantic, black lava formed mountains looming in the background. The photo above is a little amuse bouche which we remember was delicious but can’t be certain that it was flavoured with white onion and fennel. Whatever, the mandarin oil on top was gorgeous.
Next, I opted for the soup which described itself as “Langoustine Soup – Fennel – Citrus”, which is exactly what arrived. The manner of serving it was a little less predictable however as first the bowl arrived with lid as above – Chris took a sneaky peek inside his bowl and was promptly told ‘no!’ by the waiter. Then came some rather ominous looking black flasks, which we were to find out contained the langoustine soup. It all seems like more washing up to me but the whole palaver did have a fun element to it.
Oh, how that soup is rich, very rich. The bisque type soup with intensely rich and flavoursome but someone definitely had a heavy hand with the cream. We were to learn over the next few days that much Icelandic cuisine is rich, at least in restaurants anyway. You might speculate that this was once to provide hearty sustenance in a cold climate but Iceland actually has a very temperate climate, despite it’s Arctic location (due to the Gulf stream).
Next I ordered the Arctic Char with parsley root, horseradish and ratte potatoes. That breaded morsel in the foreground is a succulent langoustine. I asked the waiter beforehand what Arctic Char tastes like and he described it as a cross between salmon and trout which describes it pretty damn well actually. It’s got a bit of oiliness like a salmon and has the delicate flakiness of a trout. It was sort of creamy, salty and really rather delicious with perfect crispy skin. My favourite bit. Again though, the dish was really rich. So much so, I couldn’t even order cheese. Absolutely unheard of for me. I am still disappointed with myself and my stomach as we speak.
Next up, our traditional Icelandic 7 course meal at Einar Ben Restaurant, (Veltusund 1, IS-101 Reykjavik, Iceland, Tel. + 354 511-5090). Einar Ben describes itself as ‘pure Icelandic’ and is housed in an 18th century building just off the main square in central Reykjavik. You can see here that many of the buildings in Iceland are clad with corrugated metal. This is not hugely attractive but is highly effective at fending off extreme weather conditions such as strong winds and the occasional hurricane.
For some reason I do not have a photo of the first course and I do not know why. A little salad of marinated scallops with radishes, chilli and carrot juice. The scallops were uncooked, sliced finely and delicately flavoured. I could have eaten a big fat plateful but then I had another six courses to go so..
Next, a shellfish-soup with curry, coriander and cumin, served with scallops and langoustine, which was rich (surprise) but also sensitively curried so that it was still predominantly fishy.
My sincerest apologies for the photos, the above and also from this point forward. Next, arrived a piece of cod fillet with fried cauliflower, artichoke purée and truffle oil. They were totally stingy on the truffle oil to the point where I think it wasn’t actually on there BUT, the cod, oh, the cod! The most perfectly cooked, flakiest, succulent piece of cod I have ever ever eaten. Chris agreed. I didn’t really care about the rest.
Does someone at Einar Ben have a parmesan fetish? This is “carpaccio with mixed nut-salad, ginger and fresh parmesan”. Carpaccio of what I hear you ask? Well, it must be beef I guess, thing is, it was so doused in parmesan and cut so unbelievably thin, it was near impossible to taste anything at all. It was a bit like eating one of those flying saucer sweets as a child, sugar paper that just instantly vanished into nothing on your tongue and then a hit of sourness from the sherbet or in this case, a hit of salt form the parmesan. The only good thing about it was crispy ginger slices on top. I’ll definitely be having a go at those myself.
As I said, the Icelanders are proud of their mountain lambs, and so they should be. Small, sturdy, hairy and curly horned, they taste bloomin fantastic. The dish consisted of a juicy fillet with green peas, garlic confit, parsnip and thyme. If your creative imagination can photoshop that picture then you must marvel at how perfectly that fillet is cooked. Imagine your knife slicing through the juicy cut and then melting in your mouth like a dream.
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, there’s (nearly) always room for cheese. I was pretty full by this point but I soldiered on regardless (oh, the trauma). Unfortunately, I had consumed a large amount of wine too by the sixth course and I cannot for the life of me remember the names of these traditional Icelandic cheeses. I’m pretty sure that the holey one is a cow’s milk cheese and the other two were akin to brie and camembert in style but I am open to suggestions.
To finish the meal, a skyr crème brûlée with strawberries and vanilla. This was not very successful. I’m not sure if it was the yoghurt that didn’t work but the brûlée had a strange, grainy texture and a very thin and unsatisfying crust. For me, there needs to be a cracking moment when you plunge the spoon through the caramelised sugar and into the vanilla scented cream below. Perhaps a slightly misguided attempt at adapting a classic French dessert using an Icelandic ingredient. The skyr itself is a fantastic product – I would have been happy with a bowl of skyr with fruit.
Although not perfect, the meals had some fantastic elements and I think that keeping it traditional really gives an exciting introduction to a new country. For me though, it’s always the little meals, the impromptu snacks and lunches that really open your eyes to a new way of life so that’s coming next.
Last but not least, I would like to thank Farida of Farida’s Azerbaijani Cookbook for passing on the Yum-Yum blog award to Food Stories. I am very flattered Farida. You know I am a big fan of your blog. You can see all my awards on my, ‘Show Me Some Love!’ page. I’ll pass the award onto anyone who enjoys reading Food Stories. Not because I am lazy but because I have tried and failed to choose…
Category: Restaurant Reviews, Travel 17 comments »
July 31st, 2008 at 8:11 pm
Helen, did you try out any puffin?
Your vacation pics look fab and I see the libations flowing too!
Peters last blog post..Tequila Chicken
July 31st, 2008 at 8:52 pm
I love Iceland! Have some beautiful memories from my trips there. Doesn’t it have just the most bizarre landscape you’ve ever seen? Flat, flat, flat, MOUNTAIN!, flat, flat, flat, STEAMING MOUNTAIN!
Sorry, I get rather excited about Iceland.
The food photos are fab BTW. Beer-goggles did no harm whatsoever.
Wendys last blog post..A Simple Summer and a Very Savoury Bread
July 31st, 2008 at 8:56 pm
Wow Helen! Iceland s one place I’ve been wanting to go to for a long time. Its great to get an insight into what you ate at some restaurants…and the pics don’t look blurry at all. can’t wait for the next installment!
Peter Gs last blog post..Time For A Coffee…
July 31st, 2008 at 10:21 pm
JEALOUS! Of the food and the scenery… that cod, although blurry looks so moist! Definitely better than the local chippy
Christie @ fig&cherrys last blog post..Review: Sydney Organic Expo
July 31st, 2008 at 10:26 pm
Oh Helen, lucky you! I’ve always wanted to visit Iceland! Love your commentary on the dishes you had, by the way
Ys last blog post..Brief life of the oyster, and a lemon
July 31st, 2008 at 10:38 pm
Oh you lucky thing! I was just talking to my husband about Iceland last night!
It looks wonderful, thanks for sharing your photos!
(I saw GR catching puffins there in this week’s F Word)
Nicismes last blog post..Beat the heat with a Greek salad!
August 1st, 2008 at 2:20 am
Wow, Helen — what a wonderful trip! I’m glad that you shared it, even if a few photos weren’t up to your standards
I know very little of Iceland and it’s local foods, so I enjoyed seeing it through your eyes. I found the parmesan carpaccio to be the most shocking – what were they thinking?!?
Allens last blog post..My French Press Savior
August 1st, 2008 at 2:37 am
this is a place I would love to visit but wonder how much vegetarian food you would find there – looks like there are many other charms – love the theatre of your soup!
Johannas last blog post..Paella with thanks
August 1st, 2008 at 7:03 am
Hi Peter – No! I really really wanted to but we didn’t have time in the end. I am very sad as I really wanted to try it once. If I had a pound for every time someone has asked me that question since I got back could probably buy puffin island! Have you tried it?
August 1st, 2008 at 12:36 pm
Very nice pictures. The food looks delicious. ….From .Food blogger.
peteformations last blog post..Jokes – The Funny Pediatrician
August 1st, 2008 at 4:03 pm
WOW HELEN! I am really jealous as you know. I have wanted to go to Iceland for ages! It sounds just so wonderful – and the food,the food!
JennDZ_The LeftoverQueens last blog post..Finest Foodies Friday – August 1, 2008
August 1st, 2008 at 4:10 pm
the pictures are (mostly, instead of too much drinking, let’s say bad light! it’s hard to take pictures in a restaurant) stunning but that last one wow! i love it.
evil chef moms last blog post..Stickin’ It To The Little Guy
August 1st, 2008 at 4:13 pm
Wendy – I knew you would have been there! You are even closer then me, it must have knocked a good half hour off the flight? It is exactly as you described, totally random. I really want o go back and do some crazy 6 day hike or something, just to get to the bits that are really remote and exciting.
Peter G – Go, go go!
Christie – SO much better than the local chippy! The best bit of cod I have eaten without a doubt.
Y – Thank you! I urge you to visit Iceland asap.
Nicisme – Yes, I saw that too. We couldn’t believe it – how zeitgeist we are! I can’t believe we didn’t get to try puffin. They are very cute but I still want to eat one!
Allen – I know! I’m sticking with parmesan fetish.
Johanna – I’m not sure about the vegetarian food to be honest, not being veggie and all. I do know though that around Reykjavik, most places served salads and veggie dishes for sure. They are a really civilised society in Iceland, I don’t think you would have a problem at all.
Peteformation – thank you!
Jenn – I know! You must go one day. I can see you whale watching, you would love it!
August 4th, 2008 at 2:53 pm
Oh some of those meal descriptions had me drooling… Too heavenly!
Jeannes last blog post..Roasted strawberries – c’mon, everybody’s doing it!
August 24th, 2008 at 7:29 pm
What a wonderful trip! I am v.jealous indeed.
I’ve seen some beautiful photos of Iceland and I’m glad to see that the food is as fabulous as the scenery.
September 17th, 2008 at 10:16 am
Great blog and enjoyed reliving Iceland (I went for the first time earlier this year) through your food and photo’s! I didn’t get to try puffin when I was there either, although one or two did come almost within reach….!
Wow, you must have spent a fortune eating at all those restaurants, even the dried fish snacks were the price of a UK meal when I was out there but I’ll start saving now for a return trip and a good cut of mountain lamb.
Simons last blog post..A hidden gem
May 16th, 2009 at 2:55 pm
Mmmmm! That lamb sounds so good. Am getting lamb cravings!
foodramblers last blog post..‘rambler’s gone to iceland